Coolant temp never gets above blue zone

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Following on from the "mpg" thread, I run a E39 528 and my coolant temp hardly ever gets out of the blue zone, even after my twice daily 15 mile motorway run its barely above it - a mm or so at best and
never anywhere near straight up vertical...
Is this normal or indicative of a problem?
Many thanks
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Shevek

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sounds like either a bad sender unit or stuck (open) thermostat.

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wrote:

FWIW, there was a recall back in 2001 for the thermostat on my '99 328i.
Tom K.
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On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 14:25:04 -0500, "Tom K."

hmm, it has a full BMW service history so am I correct in thinking that if there was a recall this would have been sorted?
sorry if I sound like a noob, its because I am! 5 months into my first!
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wrote:

One would think so, but I would have it checked out as the needle should be straight up after 3-4 miles or so. Of course, its easily possible that the thermostat was replaced and the new one is now stuck open after 5 years.

No problem. Hope you are enjoying your E39.
Tom K.
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In the early nineties, on my E30, I got the thermostat stuck open causing rough revving on cold weather on the highway and bad ideling one or two minutes just after. When stopped for 5 minuyes or more, the temperature was almost correct. The dealer changed the four injectors and lotta more under warranty although I was claiming to look at the thermostat since, while driving fast, the needle was pointing towards 1/3 of the scale.
Exhausted of this waste of time and money, I decided to buy a thermostat and to change it. That ended all my problems until theu re-appeared last year after 180 000 km. I changed it again. BTW, if you replace it, make sure you mount it in the correct direction.
Teh dealer

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On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 21:07:54 +0100, "frischmoutt"

I've got a Haynes manual, I'll take a look and see if its something I can handle!

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Not normal. Mine gets up to temperature as fast as any car I've owned. Does the heater work well?
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On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:23:19 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"

yes, the heater works really well, positively tropical at 32 degrees (how do you get a degree symbol in Agent!?)
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Dunno. 32F? ;-)
If the heater works normally then the gauge must be reading incorrectly. So the engine temperature sensor would be my best bet.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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wrote:

ALT+0176
( 32 )
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wrote:

That's ALT+0176 on the Numeric Keypad, NOT the number keys on the top row of your keyboard ...
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On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:06:34 -0800, "Jeff Strickland"

    A-HA! I've always wondered why this never worked for me (though I'm usually attempting the symbol for the British pound). I've only got laptops, so no dedicated keypads on any of my computers. Thanks for solving that little mystery.     epbrown -- 2003 BMW 325i Black/Black 2003 BMW Z4 Black/Black
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wrote:

I haven't got a laptop that I can test the theory on, but laptops have a function key that when held (or pushed, or whatever it takes) will give you a numeric key pad. I would assume you would press the function key, then press and hold the ALT key and then press the keys on the numeric key pad that you get by pressing the function key first.
There is a Character Map (Start>Programs>Accessories>System Tools>Character Map) that will give you thousands of key strokes using the ALT Key + the numeric keys. Of course, you can copy and paste characters from the Character Map ...
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That's what I do as I'd find it impossible to remember little used codes.
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wrote:

I like to use 241 ( ) (this is different than 0241, which gives ) and 0176, which gives the degree symbol. The rest I have to use the Character Map because I don't remember them either ...
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This is what a stuck open thermostat might look like in cold weather.

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like others said; thermostat stuck open OR the sending unit bad. since you said the heater works well it is likely the sending unit is bad indicating the wrong temperature while it is fine. however, if it is the thermostat you are getting more wear on your engine than you want. It stays cold way too long. Thermostats are cheap, replace it I say. then if it's still not working, replace the sending unit.
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Kept a very close eye on it today to and from work:
To Work:
first ~8 miles    town and country    consistent 20-40mph         top of blue area    ~1/6 of dial
next ~10 miles    motorway        consistent 70mph         middle of blue area    ~1/12 of dial
next ~3 miles    town            stop/start traffic         around first white line    ~1/3 of dial
From Work:
first ~3 miles    town            consistent 20-30mph         top of blue are        ~1/6 of dial
next ~10 miles    motorway        consistent 70mph         middle of blue area    ~1/12 of dial
next ~3 miles    town            consistent 20-30mph         top of blue are        ~1/6 of dial
And the heater is NOT working, kept it on 32C and fan on full blast on dash vents - at ~1/12 there was very little heat, at ~1/6 it was warmer and at ~1/3 it was warm but no where near as hot as I think it should be.
So I guess it must be a dodgy thermostat!
So next question is:
What do I need to buy? I've checked a few websites and phoned a few local parts places and there basically seem to be two options, some places only offer the first and other offer both:
1) Thermostat "Kit" consisting of thermostat, housing & gasket ~40
2) Thermostat inner ~15 Thermostat gasket ~1.50 Thermostat housing ~10
Now obviously buying separately is cheaper but do I actually need the housing? Most of places which drilled down to my specific model only feature the kit whereas some model specific sites list all 4.
My car is an E39 2000 V plate 528i - do I need the housing or just the thermostat & gasket?
Sorry for such a long post and thanks for all you help!
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Shevek

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Generally just the thermostat and gasket. The housing (on mine) is plastic, but was ok when I changed my thermostat.
You'll also need the correct coolant to top up after changing it. A litre plus water should be fine. You'll also need to bleed the system properly - a google should easily find out details.
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