E39 Final Stage Resistor Replacement

Changed mine a couple of weekends ago, so, for the benefit of Google...

is a godsend. To the author,thank you.

Phone my local $tealer and quoted the part number 64 11 6 929 486 to them. "Ah yes Sir, that's been replaced by blah blah blah. Cost is GBP34.56 + VAT".

1st mistake - didn't write down what blah blah blah was.

20 minutes later, I'm in the $tealer parts department talking to the guy who remembers talking to me. He didn't write the number down either - taps my registration number into his system, disappears into the stock room and comes out with a 64 11 6 923 204.

Which is GBP48.09 + VAT (US$100). Quick and obviously pointless discussion about the difference between 34.56 and 48.09 and I'm on my way.

My car is RHD so "you'll need to pull the plastic panel over the pedals" is actually short hand for "remove the 3 cross head screws located near the bonnet(hood) release, the two T10 torx bolts either side of the steering rack and the other cross head screw right at the back, then you can drop the plastic panel. There's an electrical connection (OBD?) so just rest the panel against the pedals".

They you can remove the cross head screw holding the carpeted bolster in place then slide the bolster back towards the seat to release the two spring clips that hold it in place.

Now we get to that red arrow on

After looking and lookingfor anything resembling a final stage resistor, I finally realised the arrowis about a foot too short. The resistor is located *way* far back and *way*high up. I ended up with my seat back fully reclined, feet on headrest, button seat, head under the steering wheel and arm jammed way up there. Pull the plug off the end of the resistor and then use your other hand, the one with preferably three thumbs, to simultaneously depress the plastic tab downwards at the same time as gripping and pulling the resistor unit. 10 minutes spent expanding my son's vocabulary and it was out.

Oh.

This doesn't look good.

shows the old one(right) and the new one (left). So apart from a different number, length,shape and colour of prongs, they're identical..... How's the new onesupposed to fit the same socket(s) as the old one? The penny eventually dropped and I realised the prongs just sit in an airflow void - it's the (identical) rubber gaiter that matters. Resume the yoga position, shove it in, push the plug back on, start the engine and.....

Ahhhhhhhhh. A working fan once more.