I'm at 44k miles on my 530i. Brake warning came on. The shop is telling me
I need pads (that's a given), but also new front rotors. There is a visible
groove on the edge of the rotor, so I know they're not lying. They must be
very close to being done even if not totally done just yet. They'd probably
not make it through the next set of pads.
I know brake wear is very conditions-dependent, but assuming one does fairly
decent amount of city-type driving with good amount of stop and go (many
traffic lights), is it normal for the OEM rotors to be done in 44k miles?
I'm not complaining by any means. Just curious what your experience has
Mine has been every 40-45k miles, my E39 needs pads and rotors. Since
the rotors are relatively inexpensive it's not a big deal. You
generally can get by with two sets of pads for one set of rear rotors.
Usually. Not always.
BMW does not recommend turning rotors.
Are any special tools required? Honestly, I don't have any tools.
When I looked on line, I could get the parts for about $340 (OEM discs,
pads, sensor). At the same time, my local indy shop wants $500 for parts
(OEM) and labor.
You will eventually need an entire set of metric box wrenches.
You will eventually need an entire set of metric sockets etc.
You will need a set of jack stands. It is extremely dangerous to get under
a car or tug on recalcitrant wheels if the car is not mounted on the stands.
And, it would not hurt to have the Bentley manual handy.
Good prices. Thanks.
Although I think you may be looking at a different car. It shows the brembo
front rotors for my car are $84 each. The OEM rotors are $113.
All in all, I'm not saving much on parts by getting them on-line vs. my
shop. It's the labor charge that I'd have to swallow.
Are you nuts? Tell me, if you had a problem with your gas main,
electricity, etc. would you repair it yourself without knowing what the hell
you are you are doing?
Sorry, you hit a soft spot. You should NOT be working on your brakes when
you have absolutely no idea what you are doing.
I am a moderate fumblethumbs and even I can assure you that brakes are
easy to change. Are you saying that a motivated DIY'er shouldn't
FWIW, almost all of the things that can go wrong with a brake job will
either produce a horrible noise or keep a wheel from turning. Either
one is a sign to take it apart again to do it right. Frankly, the
most dangerous part about doing a brake job is forgetting to torque
your wheel bolts. DAMHIK.
Given that Pete can buy all the tools he needs to do this job for the
money he'll save on parts alone, I think he should make that
investment. Once he gets a gander at those tools sitting idle between
brake jobs, maybe he'll do something more productive - like taking out
the transmission. =8^O
Been there; learned that
There are enough DIY articles on the net on the subject so that I know what
I'd be doing. It's just a matter of having the right tools and willing to
spend some time with the car and get your hands dirty.
I replaced the final stage unit, spark plugs, installed an iPod integration
kit, among other things on this car. All by using DIY articles on the net.
I'm a bit on the fence about the brakes... my shop's labor rates are a bit
steep, but on the other hand, I don't really have the time to play with it
on my own, so I think I'll let the show do it.
You (okay, I) can easily change the pads and rotors on one axle in about an
hour, two at the most. Somebody that knows what they are doing, and has the
right tools and equipment, can do the job in 15 or 20 minutes. The hardest
part for the home-mechanic is putting the car on jack stands and taking the
You need a lug wrench, a couple of allen wrenches, and a hefty screw driver
to use as a pry bar, and a wrench to remove the bolts holding the caliper to
Remove the tire -- after setting the car on jackstands -- and use the prybar
to GENTLY open the caliper. (You can remove the caliper without prying it
open, but you will need a C-clamp to depress the piston. I like to gently
open the caliper while it is in place.) Remove the allen screws holding
caliper, lift the caliper out of the way and hang it from the suspension
with a coat hanger. Take the caliper mount off, and remove the set screw
holding the rotor to the hub.
Put the new rotor on, install the caliper mount. Fit the new pads and set
the caliper, install the bolts. Put the tire back on. There are torque specs
for all of this stuff. You want to tighten the bolts properly.
Somewhere in there you will discover the Brake Wear Sensor fitted to the
left front brake.
As you go about gathering tools, visit Barnes&Noble or Amazon, and buy
yourself a Robert Bentley Publishers Service Manual that covers your car. If
you are going to do anything on this car, the Bentley manual is going to
prove itself to be the most useful manual you can find.
No doubt, but IME there is no reason for not fitting pattern rotors made by
a reputable manufacturer. I've fitted pattern ones to many of my cars over
I have Brembo front rotors on my E39 528i. There's no noticeable difference
between them, and the OE ones they replaced, and they're only about half the
Mike in the UK.
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