E46 can't remove rotor!!

I'm doing a brake job on my 2002 E46. Rotor is frozen on hub, mounting screw is removed, any tips on removing rotor? Thanks, Joe

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1) Hit from behind with the biggest hammer you can find.
2) Heat it when a blow torch in the middle, repeat stage 1 :-)
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Hmmm, I was afraid I was going to have to do that. I didn't want to take the hammer to my precision German machine....... Thanks, Joe
John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland

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Do you think I need to remove the carrier bolts? (Front rotors) Thanks, Joe
John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland

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You do on most BMWs, not tried an E46.
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Do you mean the caliper bracket?
How did you think the rotor was going to come off if you didn't? Of course the caliper carrier comes off first.
And the rotor is a piece of cast iron that you are going to throw away anyhow. Don't be afraid to take a hammer to it.
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Well, this answer is full of good sense. Makes a long while I've not been hearing such a remark.
If you have the possibility, try to borrow an hub extractor. This kind of specialized tool may also be hired out of a specialized shop. Sometimes, on markets, one may buy tools made in China. Extractors are often proposed by the vendors. Of course the quality is rather poor but since they're very cheap and used only in some rare occasions, they're are worth to be bought.
You may also improvise a tool with a steel bar and two clamps. After all, the rotor is gonna be trashed. Make sure the bar is stable onto the hub nut in order it can't slide off. Normally you shouldn't need to apply a great force on the clamps.
In addition, WD40 for some hours helps the job. Be careful not to spray it from behind, where there are rubber seals and inside the calliper piston seals. I know some guys will say that rubber is proof to all sorts of agents but this is not a reason not to be careful. Moreover it's completely free !

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x wrote:

I've never heard of anyone using a hub extractor to remove a disk rotor.

Yes, you likely will need a lot of force if the rotor is hanging up on a rusted hub, which is the usual case. The use of a mallet on the rotors will set-up vibration that will help free the disk from the rusty hub. I usually use a wirebrush on the hub before doing anything else.

WD40 is useless for this. It is NOT a penetrating oil. It is a water displacement oil (hence the WD). If you want to use something like that use a REAL penetrating oil such as PBlaster or Kroil.

BS. That's because no modern auto uses rubber seals. They are *neoprene*, which is impervious to oil. If it weren't just imagine what a horror show it would be keeping the damn oil inside the engine, what with all the neoprene seals.

As is your advice, Mr x. And I have to say it is not worth the price...
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Rear rotor? Parking brake disengaged?
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