electric window problem

1996 EVO M3 UK 118,000 miles.
Normally, when the door is shut, the glass window raises a little to effect the airlcok and when the door opens, it lowers itself an inch or
so. This is for airtight locking of doors, I presume.
My passenger side window stopped doing this suddenly. The electric controls work normally and I can raise or lower thw windows with the press of a button but the window doesn't raise itsefl that last inch to effect the airlock. At motorway speed, there is the whining air noise. The driver side window works fine.
Anythoughts as to what can be wrong and if it will be expensive to fix?
TIA
Vijay.
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I'm no expert, actually, I'm new to this group since I'm a recent BMW owner. But I can give you my thoughts on this issue. My son has the same car ('99 M3 coupe).
I assume that since the window raises and lowers with the switch that the motor is good. Unless there's a separate circuit on the motor dedicated for locking the window. On the other hand, there must be some type of switch or sensor that can tell when the door is completetly closed and commands the window motor to further close up. I would suspect that this is the problem, but without looking at the schematics it's only a guess.
good luck... and if you find what's the culprit let me know.

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You are spot on Hector. On the door sill, where the door lock latches, there is a switch you can press in. My functioning window glass moves the inch up and down when you press it with the door open. It doesn't do this on the affected side. Obviously, there is some sort of a sensor that isn't working. I am going to take it to a BMW garage (an independent one) to have the estimate. I guess the whole unit housing will need o be replaced. I will let the group know about the damage!
Thanks,
Vijay Hector wrote:

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Vijay wrote:

You might try resetting the window top-position switch. Key on - press the window button UP and hold it there for 60 seconds or so.
If the door switch isn't working - it will also have this effect. Do you hear a click (audible even to my deaf ears) when you press the button in by hand (you can do this with one finger inside the post on the latch receiver assembly..) No click = bad switch. Easy DIY once you buy the correct torx(tm) drive bits to remove the latch receiver (mark it first so you get it back in the same position..)
And once you do replace it - keep the switch greased. No grease is why they wear out.
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admin wrote:

Thanks admin.This didn't work. I kept the UP button pressed for a minute or so. Nothing. The window didn't move at all!

I do hear a click. Whereas on the good side, it is accompanied by the window glass moving up and down, it doesn't do the same on the bad side. The click is there though. I wasn't clear from your post whether this means the switch is good and if so, what does one do next?
Thanks much.
Vijay
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This is the switch in the door, there is a small black switch in the door pillar in the locking mechanism, often the interior light will be on saying the door is open too. If you look at it you can see it, it's quite obvious. Simply take this off and when you unplug it the window should raise up to the locked position automatically, as it's set to go all the way up if there is no switch. Be careful when removing the switch from the door, as there is a metal bracket which it bolts to.
Remove ONE bolt, there are torx bolts by the way, then rotate the switch a little then reinsert the bolt to hold the bracket, then do the same with the other.. Disconnect the cable (door window should go up), usually the switch is fine, simply clean it up well and clean the contacts on the cables, then reconnect and try pressing the switch. If the window goes up when depressed and down when not then it's fine. Simply put back together.. Might be a good idea to seal up the switch too with some grease to stop water getting in.
I had the same problem with my 1996 coupe, it's common, often the switch doesn't fail it just needs cleaning (they are about 10 anyway). Make sure you clean it thoroughly, or it'll just start playing up again in a week or so. I cleaned mine 3 times, as it kept re-occuring, but now it's been months since I've had this problem.
I hope all that helps you.
Cheers
Craig
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Sorry.. EDIT... not in the door.. in the door PILLAR.. just read it back..

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Thanks Craig. It seems a little too technical to a luddite like me. I did take it to a BMW franchise dealership to-day and they gave me an estimate of 47.00 all inclusive. I didn't think it was too bad. Nevertheless, I shall try out your suggestion (although I have a feeling I may not have the requisite tools) first.
Thanks much,
Vijay
C.Read wrote:

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Sorry EDIT, this is in the door PILLAR not in the door..
Apologies for Vjay I accidentally mailed this edit to him..

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UPDATE:
Craig: I printed your post and did what you suggested. Removed the plate, unplugged the cable from the switch, and nothing happened. If I read your post correctly, the window should have one up to the top position. I plugged and unplugged the cable a few times without any movement from the window. I have put everything back together the way it was. I have the week-end free, so any other thoughts?
By the way, I couldn't unplug the cable without removing both bolts. I just couldn't access the cable without removing both bolts completely. Did I miss something from your post? It was a bummer getting the inner plate in position to put the screws back in.
The TORX seems like a US term. In UK, Halfords told me, these are called star head screwdrivers (and bolts)
Vijay
C.Read wrote:

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UPDATE:
Craig: I printed your post and did what you suggested. Removed the plate, unplugged the cable from the switch, and nothing happened. If I read your post correctly, the window should have one up to the top position. I plugged and unplugged the cable a few times without any movement from the window. I have put everything back together the way it was. I have the week-end free, so any other thoughts?
By the way, I couldn't unplug the cable without removing both bolts. I just couldn't access the cable without removing both bolts completely. Did I miss something from your post? It was a bummer getting the inner plate in position to put the screws back in.
The TORX seems like a US term. In UK, Halfords told me, these are called star head screwdrivers (and bolts)
Vijay
C.Read wrote:

If the window is not in the up and sealed position, when you remove the cable from the switch, the window should return to the up and sealed position and stay there. Basically the swich is closed when the door is OPEN (I think anyway) when the door is shut the switch is open.. thefore removing the switch results in the that circuit being open and the window SHOULD go up to the door closed position.. If there is no swich in the loop the window will automatically return to the up position. If it's down and it's not moving up at all when the switch cable is removed and refitted, then something else is wrong somewhere. With no switch the window SHOULD return to the fully up position.
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Thanks Craig. This is what I had gathered from your earlier post. Un-plugging the cable doesn't take the window to the sealed position. In fact, window didn't move at all. So, I agree, it is likely to be something else. The reply from admin had also suggested that if I can hear a click when I press the switch, the switch is good. I have booked it in for this coming Saturday. Hope they can fix it for the 45.00 they had quoted me.
Thanks anyways,
Vijay C.Read wrote:

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UPDATE:
Had the door switch replaced. As expected, didn't fix the problem. Thought will update the group. The garage wants the car back for detailed check to look at the electrics. It seems the computer is treating the shut door as open. This can become quite expensive for a 10 year old car. I will appreciate anyother simpler ways of fixing the problem, even if it means permanently locking the window in top dead position.
Thanks again in anticipation,
Vijay Vijay wrote:

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