heater blower fault

can anyone put me in the direction for where the heater blower relay is on my bmw e38 RHD 1995

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jonjo777 wrote:

It won't be a relay. Google for "E38 hedgehog" (and probably in the similar location on an E39); it's a PWM controller for the fan motor.
And check realoem.com; that'll give you diagrams that should help.
--
Scott

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replying to Scott M , Jonjo777 wrote:

Hi Scott thanks for info the relay where is this located on my e 36 this blower stopped working and after it worked for a while just trying to trace from fuse to motor
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replying to Jonjo777, Jonjo777 wrote:

E38 sorry
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Actually, it seems to be a linear controller, not a PWM device. Which is why it's got all those cooling fins and still overheats and fails. --scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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replying to Scott M , Jonjo777 wrote:

**hi Scott what are these would These be be anything to do with final stage of the blower .i did make a start to remove the top dash after removing three 13 mm bolts from side and a few screws along the front then a standstill all front was loose but doesn't want to come out have I mist any is to why the dash seems stuck click to open the full size version of the image
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Jonjo777 wrote:

Those are the direction flap control motors.
Here's a guide to replacing it, although for a LHD car:
http://www.bavariandominator.co.uk/pages/how_to_replace_e38_blower_resistor_137123.cfm
--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?
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If the blower worked at HIGH speed longer than at other speeds, the most probable fault is the Final Stage Resistor. This resistor cuts the voltage to the motor to cause it to run at the various speeds, and the heat it generates tends to cook it over time. The typical symptom is that LO will fail first, and HI fails last.
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replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:

Hi mate I now have the dash out and located the final stage resistor can I test at the plug for power to this with a amp mt thanks john
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If the motor failed as described, the FSR is toast. Just buy a new one.
If the motor stopped working at low and medium speeds before it stopped working at high speed, the FSR went out. I'm sure there should be a test of the FSR, but I do not know what it is, for example I cannot say to connect the meter lead to Pin 1 and check for continuity to Pins 2, 3, and 4. I'm sure the test is something like that, but I can't say for sure it is that.
The blower motor comes out into the engine bay, you do not get to it by removing the dash board. The FSR lives on the left side of the transmission hump, on a LHD car, it's just to the right of the gas pedal.
My Bentley manual does not give a test procedure for checking the continuity through the FSR. If I can read my schematic at all, Pin 4 is the common pin to all of the speeds, so you want continuity from Pin 4 to each of the other pins. Pin 4 has a GRN/GRY wire going to it (actually, the flow of electricity is that the wire comes out). There is a thermal protection switch (heat fuse) that will open, and this causes all speeds except MAX to fail. The BLK wire (Pin 3) is Low, GRN (Pin 2) is Med, and BLU (Pin 1) is High. GRN/GRY (Pin 4) is referred to as Max. Speeds on the control dial are 1 through 4, where 1 is low and 4 is max.
(I am using the schematic for a '94 325, and it is the schematic for all cars from '93 to '95, except the ti.)
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Use www.realoem.com or www.penskeparts.com to find the part for your car. You can then use the Part Number Search to see which other models use the same part as your car. This can help if you want to visit the local junk yard for parts from a wrecked car.
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replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:

Thank you for your time and input with regards to my e38 blower fault after removing the dash my FSR is sat above the blower there is a plug with three wires going into the plastic housing anyways I done a mt test with full blower switch selected and got a reading of. 7.8 ten 2.13 in auto blow and other reading when increased so I'm getting the power there to the FSR so hope a replacement will solve my troubles thanks very much for. Your help guys
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I'm sorry, I gave you a bum steer. The FSR is located on the left side of the transmission hump on an E36, I forgot that you have a 5 Series. The FSR should be the same, and you can confirm this by finding it in realoem.com or penskeparts.com and then cross referencing the part number.
If your FSR is the same as mine, power comes out of Pin 4 and goes to the motor. In my car (manual control module), power comes out of the controller to the FSR, then comes out of the FSR on Pin 4 and goes to the motor as a variable voltage, where the variance is what changes the motor speed. My FSR has 4 wires, and the motor has 2. I think your car is significantly different and I have not helped you at all.
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replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:

Think we getting confused a bit I have a 740 e38 on a 95 plate
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7 Series, 5 Series, not much different, but not a 3 Series that I used for my attempt at helping you.
The fact remains, if the fan speed worked at MAX, but did not work on Low, Med., or High, then the FSR is the primary suspect in all that is wrong.
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replying to Jeff Strickland , Jonjo777 wrote:

Hello mate thanks for advice I have now got the FSR out now and you are spot on I have power to the FSR but none coming to motor I have test motor and that is fine so thanks it seem a lot of work to get the resistor out from under the dash
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