Is the problem intermittent? Does the pedal stick to the floor?
Will pumping it a couple of times move the pressure point back up to
where it belongs? Is there any visible leakage around the piston of
the clutch master cylinder?
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
The hydraulics will put the pedal closer to the floor when they fail, not
near the top.
I agree with your symptom test, pump the pedal and see if the symptoms
change, but I'm pretty sure that if the hydraulics are the problem, the
clutch will engage near the bottom of th epedal travel, not near the top.
The clutch master cylinder can fail internally and there will be no leakage
to the outside at all.
Recommend automatic transmission .. last just as long and you get the
same gas mileage and brake wear and less repair like you are doing now.
My guess, is that if you have a hydraulic master/slave cylinder for
actuating the clutch plate ... that is wearing out. It is the only
variable in the subsystem you are working on ... as the mechanics are
fixed and absolute ... have a lot of meat on the plate still with poor
Master/slave/hose have to be replaced if you decide that is necessary
... as all three are worn out from use.
To replace the master cylinder alone will blow out the weaker slave and
hose subsystems in the clutch hydraulics ... that is if you have that
Next car ... go automatic ... BMW is close to making the infinity
transmission ...the V-12 large flywheel torque engine will be at idle
all the time and you will have a transmission pedal on the floor to burn
rubber at any speed.
sumbuddie hopes that helps
The problem with this *recommendation* is an auto tranny, even if the
slushbox last "just as long as a clutch," will cost at least 4-5x
times the price of a clutch replacement! BMW auto trannies are known
to be problematic and based on varies comments here and in
publications like Roundel, seem to have a "lifetime" of about 100K
miles. After that, you're lookng at spendng 5-6K for a rebuilt
In contrast, even if a clutch wears out at 100K and it only cost about
$1K in parts and labor to replace; alot cheaper than having to buy a
new transmission. Further, another recommendation is to replace your
transmission and differential fluids with a good synthetic from
Redline or RP. Makes shifting feel like butter.....Good Luck!
I have 185,000 on a 528i 2000 edition ...
engine and autotranny are full on factory specs.
fuel pump is wearing they say ...
still it tests at factory specs as well.
no indicators for replacement other then miles on 8 years roadwork.
Jeff Strickland wrote:
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