Oil Service Light Reset

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On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 08:18:03 -0400, Fred W


That depends on where it's done. The parts are a bit more expensive but labor is where they like to rape you.

A $2000 dollar brake job had to be a complete replacement of everything including the brake lines and whatever owner gave him that news is an idiot. The $150 oil changes are apparently a dealer thing and they claim to do more than just change the oil.

There are so many Hondas on the road (mostly driven by kids) here that it's not funny. Don't know why you'd refer to them as appliances but I get the gist of it. They're just another cookie cutter car, nothing to set them apart from the other 50 just like it in the parking lot.

I'm sure he'll come back with a whole argument but I'm willing to say that it's cheaper to have the dealer work on your Honda than your BMW. BMW owners drive "a fine automobile" and expect to pay more to keep it in top condition and that allows the dealership to charge a higher price.
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Psycho wrote:

I thought that too initially, until I heard the prices that the Honda dealerships are getting these days. I guess their justification is that the Honda is such a reliable car (and it is) that you should not mind paying a super-premium to have them work on it.
Of course the cost of brake work at dealerships is a moot point to me anyway since brake work on *my* cars always happens at the same shop. It's the one attached to my house (aka my garage). ;-)
--
-Fred W

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On Thu, 13 Apr 2006 08:30:36 -0400, Fred W

Just on a whim, I called the local Honda dealer today and was quoted approximately $400 for a brake service for a 2004 Camry (my dad's). This included new pads, machining rotors, inspection and adjustment. Not sure when they started having to adjust disc brakes but the avarage car owner wouldn't know the difference. BTW - If the rotors had to be replaced, the cost went up significantly. Needless to say, tomorrow I'l drop about $50 (probably less) on pads and we'll change the brakes. I guess they are charging a bit more these days...

Same here, I do all the work I can on my vehicles. Nice to learn what makes it tick and how to fix it when it breaks. Feels good not to be at the mercy of the mechanic although you may still be at the mercy of the hook pilot somewhere down the road.
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Psycho wrote:

An interesting thing to note there is that they would even consider "machining" the rotors. Most dealerships would never turn rotors these days. They claim it is not worth their time and prefer to just put on new disks. I wonder if they intended to do any machining at all, or if they were just planning on taking your money for that and slapping on a new set of pads.
You have to be so cynical these days...
--
-Fred W

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On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 08:18:03 -0400, Fred W

Good lord. I see you're still off on your arboreal adventures.
I happen to think you're wrong, but you've never been wrong in your life, have you?
--
Dan.

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Dean Dark wrote:

Well, yes actually. I thought I made a mistake once, but it turns out that I was mistaken. ;-)
--
-Fred W

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Actually, everywhere in the world except North America, it was sold as the Honda NSX. Acura only existed in the US and Canada until very recently. Actually, I am not 100% sure that Honda ever followed through on their plan to establish the Acura brand in Europe.
See this webpage http://world.honda.com/NSX/history
Notice that nowhere on it is the word Acura.
Kevin Rhodes Westbrook, Maine 91 318is (better than any Honda ever made!)
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wrote:

Don't consider the Prelude an appliance. At 2900 lbs with a 200 hp 2.2 ltr VTEC it is a strong runner with first-rate brakes and great performance. It will give most 3 series a good run for the money. The new Civic SI I recently drove is similar in execution. As far as ending up with a Honda, it is telling. During the 60s I owned an 64 XKE, a Sunbeam Tiger (modified) that I autocrossed with great success while assigned duty in Japan, a couple of Corvettes (69 and 71), etc, etc. I became a real Honda fan when I moved from Norton and Triumph motorcycles to the early 4 cylinder 750s Honda imported to the US -- after I saw it at the Tokyo motor show in 68. BMWs -- tested a 2002 in 74 and did not like it. So, I thought I would look at it again. But, as appliance driver, I guess I don't deserve a BMW by your assessment.

n
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tww wrote:

Too bad that none of them actually handle worth a damn. If you can't tell the difference between a Honda and a BMW then you would be absolutely crazy to buy a BMW.

You deserve whatever you can best appreciate. Hondas are fine cars. Just not exciting to me and (my) life is too short for boring cars.
--
-Fred W

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You are absolutely right. Convinced me I can't join your club. It's seems pretty exclusive.

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tww wrote:

Well, it's not a club, and therefore is not exclusive. But you have to admit there is a rather significant premium ($$) paid to be a BMW owner compared to a Honda in terms of initial investment. If you (or anyone lese for that matter) are not able to appreciate a difference (ostensibly for the better) in the more expensive car, why on earth would you pay the premium?
So I guess the exclusivity is that not everyone can appreciate that difference?
--
-Fred W

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On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 09:12:25 -0400, Fred W

Actually, the early Preludes were pretty good handling cars. In spite of being FWD.
The best handling FWD cars were, IMHFO, late 60's Minis. 1079 Cooper S's in particular. I had two of them at different times back then, and there was nothing else on the road back then that I had reason to fear.
--
Dan.

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and they actually do it.

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tww wrote:

Of course they do it. They want to sell you repairs. It's in their best interest to find problems.
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rlking wrote:

BMW eliminated the underhood connector on most models starting in 2000, and by 2001 it was history. ALL diagnostics is now done via the OBD-II connector inside the car.
Reset of the oil and service lights is done via the two buttons on the instrument cluster. I'd suggest Googling for the info.
No tool is needed, no wire to possibly burn up the wiring harness.. piece'a'cake.
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Robert,
I believe there might be a way to reset the light through the combinations of hitting the gas pedal and turning the ignition switch. I am not sure about this, but it is worth investigating.
rlking wrote:

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You can buy a tool through Bavarian Auto or BMP in Texas that allows you to reset the way the dealers do. The tool is about $60. or $70., a small price to pay to avoid the agravation. I've reset my own service lights for 5 years this way. Obviously, it's paid for itself several times over

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