I think this is one of those US misnomers. In the UK we call this an "anti
Its main purpose is to keep the [front] wheels vertical when you go round
corners, so that all the tread of the tyres is on the road. This improves
handling, and IIRC also reduces body roll on the car. They form a second
attachment the hubs and increase rigidity in the vertical plane.
True; unfortunately, 'antiroll bar' is a more correct term.
*OR* to keep the whole car more level so that a tire *at the other end*
will stay planted. In the end, it all has to do with influencing over-
and understeer characteristics. Since I already know that, someone
else will have to visit the spammer's website.
Last time I checked, yes. Along with adjustable aerodynamics, it's one
of the most valuable suspension adjustments they have available. What
I don't know is if they can currently (legally!) be adjusted while
The rules exclude adjustable suspension or aerodynamics when on track. Any
adjustments must be made in the pits. To get round this, some rear wings
were designed to bend, and alter their profile at speed. As soon as it was
discovered, such wings were banned.
Not quite true. The arm appeared to be drop forged and consequently rather
Fortunately for me it broke when I was trickling up behind a bus at lights
doing about 25mph about 1km from home.
The previous day I had been carved up by a Porsche near the start of the M62
in Liverpool, and had kerbed the OSF wheel. I initially assumed that this
had caused the damage, however on extraction of the arm what I actually
discovered was an absolutely classic fatigue crack accross the base of the
[badly designed] lug. It had little waves where the crack had propagated,
corrosion worsening towards its origin, and then some rather large advances
before total failure (one no doubt caused the previous day).
I was I guess pretty lucky that the failure did not occur when I was doing
70mph on a busy motorway!
On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:40:48 +0000 (UTC), "R. Mark Clayton"
The progressive fatigue cracking in the place you describe is also
what happens when the inboard bush is no longer performing its
It was a common failure mode.
If it wasn't that, then I'm not sure what it was that caused the
fatigue cracking in yours.
Here's a little story. When I bought my 94 Volvo turbo wagon
(estate), it came without a rear stabilizer bar. In hard, tight
corners, it had a bad habit of lifting the inside front wheel, losing
traction, and sometimes letting the wheel spin.
About a year later, I installed a rear bar, with the intent of
reducing overall body roll. When I took it out for a test drive,
the bar had so dramatically reduced understeer that I nearly ran off
the inside of a familiar fast sweeper.
One reason for this is that it kept the rear of the car from rolling
to the outside of the turn, which kept the opposite (inside front)
corner more firmly planted. I now had two tires guiding me through
the corners instead of just one. (Think of a table with one short
leg. Push down on that corner, and the opposite corner lifts.)
I suspect this effect was more dramatic due the higher rear C.G. of
the wagon body..
I'm still upset that Volvo left the rear bar off on this model,
leaving me with lousy handling until I discovered the fix.
Email reply: please remove one letter from each side of "@"
Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
Apparently a good thing you didn't know the proper primary way to
accomplish that is with stiffer springs.
Yup. Stiffer rear = less understeer. Exactly what you should expect.
BMW made the same mistake with the NA-spec. '77 320i, which lifted the
inside rear (drive) wheel and yelped like a whipped puppy in hard
cornering. The following year, they removed the rear bar, installed a
stiffer front one, and the problem went away.
On 11 Sep 2005 12:46:15 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Let me think... Nope, I already know. It's a length of metal attached
between the left and rght wheels across there the front/rear of the
vehicle that uses it's tortional stiffness to resist suspension
movement on one side without the other. Designed to allow softer
suspension to be used to absorb bumps on the road, but still have
respectable corner handling.
Known as an Anti-roll bar in the UK.
Often the bushes the bar goes through that are attached to the vehicle
body are the source of odd clonks and creaks when the bushes wear.
Did I miss anything?
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