Vibration damper

I have to remove (and install back later) vibration damper on '87 4 cylinder e30. What is the right procedure? Can I remove it without special tool?
What about refitting? There is a TDC mark on it. How do I fix it so it does not move out of alignment while tightening mounting nut?
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/__/ / \ ** Registrovani korisnik Linuksa #291606 **
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Just an ordinary socket. They're usually tight and I shock them free with a hammer. Sometimes you can use an impact driver. Others jam the engine via the starter ring gear.

There is a woodruff key which locates the pulley - it will only fit in the correct position.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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Nedavno Dave Plowman (News) pise:

Do you jam the engine via the starter ring gear (as you wrote) when refitting?
And is it necessary to remove fan or radiator?
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The damper is keyed to the crankshaft so you don't need to worry about losing alignment. You will need the somewhat 'special' 30mm socket to fit the nut and a pretty big pipe wrench to hold the damper while you loosen and torque the nut. The torque spec is 140 ft-lb when you reinstall the nut. Install the pipe wrench onto the smaller part of the pulley near the timing cover and position it so it will be restrained by the AC compressor when you loosen the nut. The nut is a normal right hand thread but be prepared to grunt. It takes a lot of torque to break the nut free. The pipe wrench will put some scars on the damper body but this procedure is straight out of the Bentley Manual. I assume you are doing this because of a leaking front main seal so be sure to check the damper to see if there is a groove worn into the sealing surface. If the groove is deeper than .006 you should replace the damper.

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Nedavno Jack pise:

Actually, I am installing A/C. So I have to change damper, as the one that is on now can drive only fan belt.
I was about to get one from the local wrecks, but you got me worried now. Is there a way to check if damper is good without looking at the seal? Buying new damper will cost me more than complete A/C set :-(
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The sealing surface (and wear) that I was referring to is on the shaft boss of the damper that extends into the timing cover. There's no need to examine the oil seal itself. I do think it would be a good idea to replace the oil seal on your engine at this time as it's pretty easy to do after you have the damper off. Although I have never seen it written down, I have heard people recommend installing the new seal a little short of flush (.04-.08in) so that the new seal will be running on an unworn area of the sealing surface of the damper.

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Nedavno Jack pise:
| The sealing surface (and wear) that I was referring to is on the | shaft boss of the damper that extends into the timing cover. There's | no need to examine the oil seal itself. I do think it would be a | good idea to replace the oil seal on your engine at this time as it's | pretty easy to do after you have the damper off. Although I have | never seen it written down, I have heard people recommend installing | the new seal a little short of flush (.04-.08in) so that the new seal | will be running on an unworn area of the sealing surface of the | damper.
Thank you. Now I have to find some good English technical dictionary to try to understand what you are talking about (as you may guest, English is not my native language).
It will probably be more clear to me when I remove the damper.
Than you again for your time and help.
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