How many miles and years on the engine. If it's a long time I would
just switch to 5w30 non-synthetic. Running synthetic in an old engine
could cause it to start leaking. For those cold northeast mornings
just install a block heater and solve any cold start worries.
You might get away with it, but I would never do it.
The only engines the call for 0w40 have micro polished crank journals.
Using 0w40 could cause rapid wear, and it would be a crying shame to
wipe the bearings on such a rare engine.
The Rotella is *great* stuff but would probably show no benefit on
such a low mileage engine. I use it exclusively on both my hi mileage
D> So then you'd recommend a conventional 10W-40?
I suggested Havoline 5 w 40 in the winter, cheaper and does as good a
job with your engine is oil costing 10 times as much. This all depends on
how much you drive the car and many other factors. Is it garaged? With an
engine of that vintage you just won't get anything out of synthetics that
make it worthwhile. Just stay away from Pennsylvania oils. Anything paraphin
based. A good grade major oil company oil, Texaco, Shell, Union 76, Phillips
are ALL good. You can get that stuff dirt cheap in most parts store or Wal
Mart. Just NEVER buy a house brand. Any MAJOR oil company's good grade oils.
Frankly a 10 weight in winter and 30 weight in summer is even better.
The Rotella isn't like a conventional 10W-40... it's made with petroleum
base stock, but it has a lot more ZDDP in it than a modern conventional
oil does. This is a big deal for the cam arrangements in many older engines.
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Depends on which Rotella you're talking about. Regular Rotella T is
conventional base stock. Rotella T Synthetic is Shell's XHVI (extreme
high viscosity index) base stock. Its a "Group III+" base stock, refined
from hydrocracker bottom slack wax and severely hydroprocessed, dewaxed,
and further refined. Its wonderful stuff, and performs almost
identically to Polyalphaolefin (Group IV) synthetics. In fact it carries
additives a little BETTER than Group IV base stocks. Often PAO
synthetics like Mobil 1 and others will add some conventional group
II/III stock to the mix to carry additives that the PAO won't.
It appears that scare may have been greatly overblown. Certainly once a
cam has been initially broken in, its need for high doses of ZDDP is
about nil. Especially with factory valve springs that don't have a seat
pressure of more than 300 lb or so. The latest diesel oils (Rotella-
both flavors, Delvac and Delvac 1, Valvoline Premium Blue, Delo 400,
etc.) are also reducing their zinc content, but at a slower rate than
gasoline oils. The latest Rotellas are now gasoline SM and diesel CJ
rated, which means that the zinc is coming way down.
I am talking about water cooled engines. It's in the book. normal
summer temperature ranges around here call for either xW40 or xW50
based on the chart in the owner's manual. xW30 is for winter only.
We had a 1983 Mercury Cougar. We loved the car, but it needed regular
repairs and died at 99,960. (Yes, as a matter of fact, I *did*
contemplate renting a Clydesdale to pull it the other 40 miles . . . but
we were packing for grad school, and I just got rid of it.)
Anyway, it called for 20w50 in its factory handbook. Then again, it
called for three different oils throughout the year in some climates. I
think I got away with only two here in Las Vegas.
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