buffing out paint-- any suggestions??

I've never heard of this method:

But baking soda is a mild abrasive. but, using water on blasted metal, which it would be in effect when finished. Is like playing Russian Roulette!

I'd use a flake off type stripper, one that goes on wet, then you wait till it dries, and everything comes off in flakes. It's also environmentally friendly, because you only have solid waste to deal with when dried.

Rust usually hides in the window checks, so stripping a car without removing the windows, is a half assed job, at best. If you aren't going to remove the windows, don't bother stripping it!

Also, consider taking off the window whiskers on the door and quarter windows, they are a good place for rust to hide.

I hope this helps?

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King
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My brother had a 68 Javelin:

With a Dana 44 and a 290 and a Borg Warner T-10, A cam, a competition valve job, forged 11.0 to 1 pistons, and it ran 12.3. The car was an animal for it's size and the small motor.

Wally booth won Pro Stock for three years in a row in the early 70's with an AMC, if it weren't for the NHRA changing the rules about cutting apart cylinder heads. Then a few years later saying it was OK to do the head modifications again. Wally already had enough and went to Chevy, but got tired of Bill Jenkins kicking his ass and retired!

Reply to
Refinish King

My plan is next summer completely tear down the car, strip the paint, and rebuild it from the ground up... Well.. START to do all that.. lol.. Its in need of a lot of help, and this car has just about every problem you can think of.. has proven to be a good learning experience.. lol. Thats why I am looking for good techniques and products that are cost efficeint(Still in college) but not real hard or real time consuming to do. But I want to do this project right so I end up with a beautiful car instead of a 2600# paperweight. ANY help is greatly appreciated.

Reply to
KITT

Just make sure that:

You use a good auto body supplier, get a 5 gallon can of acetone. Wipe down each panel you strip with acetone. Then use PPG LF32 or any of the other colors, before priming or using any plastic filler, but use the DP402 catalyst in it.

The DP402 will have a 15 minute permeation time after you mix it, before you spray it, the LF402 won't. But, you can't use the LF series epoxies catalyzed with the LF series catalyst under plastic filler.

Plastic filler is like a sponge and absorbs moisture, primers, whether epoxy or urethanes are too granular and allow moisture penetration. If you want a show quality job, that will last till your grandchildren can drive the car, use the PPG LF250 primer also. It just about fills in 40 grit scratches, with no shrinkage. It's a too component primer, use a dual cartridge respirator!

I can't warn people enough what Isocyanates did to me!

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

Hmmm.. wow.. did anyone else understand any of that?? LOL... Not to act stupid.. but could you Mickey Mouse that? Lamens terms MIGHT work.. but I wouldn't count on it.. lol

Reply to
KITT

Try the stuff the pros use - check out these products

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You have to buy it from a car paint supplier - not the local speed shop. You could email them to find your nearest stockist. Its expensive but the best.

They make a range of different products - your choice depends on how flat your paint is & therefore the degree of abrasiveness you need to bring back the shine & cut out any scratches.

Most bodyshops use powered polishers because of their throughput, but you'll get the same results manually - with more effort! Apply it to a wet good quality polishing cloth - not any old rags!

Good luck!

Reply to
dave thacker

Overpriced repackaged shit!

You can buy 3-M over the counter for less money, without the risk of staining!

Refinish King

PS In 36 years, I've never seen that stuff in any auto body trade magazine, or any of the hundreds of body shops or recon shops that I've visited!

Reply to
Refinish King

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