Re: 88 camaro won't run

First thing you MUST do, is, disconnect the battery to erase all codes that were stored in the ECU (about 5 - 10 minutes should do it).

Now, re-connect the battery, and start the car. When/if the SES light comes back on, (if it doesn't, you're in luck) shut the car off.... and jumper the A&B terminals with a paper clip. Turn the key in the on position (do not start the car), and see if this erased any one of the two stored codes.....

If codes 33 & 41 are still prevalent, lets move on....

Nine times out of ten (if the car is idling a little above 1000 RPM in park (or neutral for sticks), it's a wiring issue. If it's close to 2000 RPM, it's more than likely you're MAF sensor (but not definite though.... so don't worry just yet).

Although code 36 is not indicated, it would be a good idea to replace this relay as well, as it too affects the MAF.

Disconnect the battery again, and remove the harness connector underneath the MAF sensor. Inspect it thoroughly, and try to trace as far back as you can to see if any wires are exposed due to age, heat.... or tampering from another owner.

On the fire wall (drivers side), find the MAF Burn Off and the MAF Power Relay's and their individual connectors.... and inspect them thoroughly for any tears, rips, and especially for any pulls or tugs (sometimes the wires can be seen coming out of the connector terminal's.... as these harnesses come very short in length from the factory).

If the wiring, connectors & terminals check out okay, you'll need to buy some new Burn Off & Power relay's from any auto store (their only about $15.00 bucks each..... and, ironically, are the same part number)!

If the above didn't remove the code 33, then it's more than likely the faulty MAF sensor itself. These are pretty expensive, so find an aftermarket company who specializes in these (GM Parts will charge you too much), or simply have you're MAF rebuilt from a specialist (which, too, is costly, but not as much though).

.

This could be tricky, and you'll need to pull the ECM out and inspect the connections. If the Code 41 didn't go away after you reset the ECU, it's more than likely the connection at the distributor (electronic spark control). Again, it's imperative to check all the wires and connections, as these wires go bad in time, and some get accidentally cut unexpectedly.... even during a simple tune-up.

You have to give me a symptom, what does the car do differently?

Patience is a key factor here. ANY code 33 on the TPI system will trigger the '"Limp Home Mode" on any GM car, This could also mean that the Code 33 is causing the Code 41 to appear (but this is honesly a longshot though). Once the Code 33 appears, the ECU is set to a very rich mixture..... and WAY too much timing (this is somthing you can't control.... you can only eliminate the Code 33, to get the ECU back to it's proper settings). You're car right now should run very rough, have 'some' spark knock when you step on it hard..... and shift TERRIBLY, right?

Correct the Code 33 with the info above, then worry about the Code 41 afterward. Believe me, It's probabaly nothing at all..... but not knowing is what's making it a pain in the @$$.....

I had the same car awhile back with a 350, their notorious for these Codes, believe me!

I too was under the impression that is was the Electronic Spark Control sensor..... but if you're book is telling you the ECU, I would check both areas just in case, you never know.... :)))

Take Care

Reply to
IROC-Z 502
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Thanx very much for the info

First yes I had pulled the battery and I leave it off as this is a project car I had been wreck and I am currently rebuilding the front end I bought it wrecked just for this learning experince and have learned a lot already about Fuel ingection and ecms

I do not know this for sure but discovered that the distributor had a problem. It was in bad shape and I found a used one that I intend to put in this weekend after that I will check the error codes again and see if They are still there or not

First thing you MUST do, is, disconnect the battery to erase all codes that were stored in the ECU (about 5 - 10 minutes should do it).

Now, re-connect the battery, and start the car. When/if the SES light comes back on, (if it doesn't, you're in luck) shut the car off.... and jumper the A&B terminals with a paper clip. Turn the key in the on position (do not start the car), and see if this erased any one of the two stored codes.....

If codes 33 & 41 are still prevalent, lets move on....

Nine times out of ten (if the car is idling a little above 1000 RPM in park (or neutral for sticks), it's a wiring issue. If it's close to 2000 RPM, it's more than likely you're MAF sensor (but not definite though.... so don't worry just yet).

Although code 36 is not indicated, it would be a good idea to replace this relay as well, as it too affects the MAF.

Disconnect the battery again, and remove the harness connector underneath the MAF sensor. Inspect it thoroughly, and try to trace as far back as you can to see if any wires are exposed due to age, heat.... or tampering from another owner.

On the fire wall (drivers side), find the MAF Burn Off and the MAF Power Relay's and their individual connectors.... and inspect them thoroughly for any tears, rips, and especially for any pulls or tugs (sometimes the wires can be seen coming out of the connector terminal's.... as these harnesses come very short in length from the factory).

If the wiring, connectors & terminals check out okay, you'll need to buy some new Burn Off & Power relay's from any auto store (their only about $15.00 bucks each..... and, ironically, are the same part number)!

If the above didn't remove the code 33, then it's more than likely the faulty MAF sensor itself. These are pretty expensive, so find an aftermarket company who specializes in these (GM Parts will charge you too much), or simply have you're MAF rebuilt from a specialist (which, too, is costly, but not as much though).

.

This could be tricky, and you'll need to pull the ECM out and inspect the connections. If the Code 41 didn't go away after you reset the ECU, it's more than likely the connection at the distributor (electronic spark control). Again, it's imperative to check all the wires and connections, as these wires go bad in time, and some get accidentally cut unexpectedly.... even during a simple tune-up.

You have to give me a symptom, what does the car do differently?

Patience is a key factor here. ANY code 33 on the TPI system will trigger the '"Limp Home Mode" on any GM car, This could also mean that the Code 33 is causing the Code 41 to appear (but this is honesly a longshot though). Once the Code 33 appears, the ECU is set to a very rich mixture..... and WAY too much timing (this is somthing you can't control.... you can only eliminate the Code 33, to get the ECU back to it's proper settings). You're car right now should run very rough, have 'some' spark knock when you step on it hard..... and shift TERRIBLY, right?

Correct the Code 33 with the info above, then worry about the Code 41 afterward. Believe me, It's probabaly nothing at all..... but not knowing is what's making it a pain in the @$$.....

I had the same car awhile back with a 350, their notorious for these Codes, believe me!

I too was under the impression that is was the Electronic Spark Control sensor..... but if you're book is telling you the ECU, I would check both areas just in case, you never know.... :)))

Take Care

Reply to
ross

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