I have this infamous bumping noise when I hard brake or hit bumpy terrain. Took the rear pass. wheel off today and could not find anything loose. Only noticed the sway bar connects to the body on that side in sort of an angle onto a downward bar. My brake caliper was snug as all heck and the brake pads had plenty of wear left on them.
Anybody solved this?
Thanks, Brian snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net
On Fri, 23 Jul 2004 05:48:52 GMT, "Brian O" puked:
Could it be a transmission mount? I had that go on my 2k SS.
-- lab~rat >:-) Do you want polite or do you want sincere?
Spare tire moving around? I dunno.. but when my transmission mount went, it did a banging on harder acceleratiooons annd harder stops....
Went to CarMax where I bought the car. They said it was a bad sway bar link, and that I had a loose control arm. I buy the sway bar theory, because I noticed the sway bar was mounted a bit crooked when I tried to diagnose all this myself. The control arms were fine. They are BMR and built for combat. So far, CarMax has treated me well. No complaints.
Part two of the story requires a pair of calipers. I had CarMax install a new 1LE sway bar I bought from SLP Online. But I swear this new one looks identical to the one CarMax pulled off of my car. My door panel does not show any 1LE option packages, so I know my car did not ship with this. I am keeping a sense of humor, as SLP only charged me about 80 bucks for the bar, so if it is no better than standard, no big loss.
Thanks for listening, Brian
Using an adjustable wrench, I am able to find a diameter difference in the two sway bars.
Thanks, SLP.
Brian, An adjustable spanner is hardly scientific. You may be correct, but you might want to invest in a micrometer. The problem may actually be with the lower control arms. (I'm assuming you mean your rear stabilizer bar since you mentioned control arms.) Often control arms are side specific and people grease 'em up and pop 'em on the wrong side, etc....
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