1988 S10

Code 15 says> .. cooling sensor or circuit / low temp. indicated

Makes sense - my book just says sesor voltage high. I have an aftermarket detector unit in it, always ment to put a T in it so I could have the idiot light as well. That should also fix this code.

Any ideas? I have a fuel injector/throttle body. If I remember correctly I don't have a map sensor. I could very possibly be wrong. I do have a sensor that was attached to the side of my air box that is connected to a vacuume line and 2-3 wires. I can't remember what my mechanic called it, but I also remember being told I was calling it by the wrong name. I'd love to clear out my signals. I've had the 15 for a while, but the 32 just developed recently. Well after that sensor I described was suspect. I ran the truck for serveral months without that part attached and a starburst wraper suck in the tube! Any help would be nice or an abusive remark from scrib.

TOP POSTING

Sounds to me you should check your EGR regulator which has vacuum lines and a electrical connection.Could just be an old fashion vacuum leak.........Or regulator going out...... Re: 1988 S10 Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Mon, Oct 6, 2003, 11:35pm (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ) Code 15 says> =A0 .. cooling sensor or circuit / low temp. indicated Makes sense - my book just says sesor voltage high. I have an aftermarket detector unit in it, always ment to put a T in it so I could have the idiot light as well. That should also fix this code. Code 32 > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 ..Baro Sensor(carb.models) or =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0= =A0=A0=A0=A0.. EGR Circuit (fuel injection models) or =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0= =A0=A0=A0=A0.. Open Map sensor circuit Any ideas? I have a fuel injector/throttle body. If I remember correctly I don't have a map sensor. I could very possibly be wrong. I do have a sensor that was attached to the side of my air box that is connected to a vacuume line and 2-3 wires. I can't remember what my mechanic called it, but I also remember being told I was calling it by the wrong name. I'd love to clear out my signals. I've had the 15 for a while, but the

EGR is relatively new, but I suppose the lines going to and from etc could be shot. That helps me clear up the vacuum she-ought but what about the weird feeling in the truck?? I know it's a sucky description - just pretend you work at a dealership :)

Sounds to me you should check your EGR regulator which has vacuum lines and a electrical connection.Could just be an old fashion vacuum leak.........Or regulator going out...... Re: 1988 S10

Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Mon, Oct 6, 2003, 11:35pm (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ) Code 15 says> .. cooling sensor or circuit / low temp. indicated Makes sense - my book just says sesor voltage high. I have an aftermarket detector unit in it, always ment to put a T in it so I could have the idiot light as well. That should also fix this code. Code 32 > ..Baro Sensor(carb.models) or .. EGR Circuit (fuel injection models) or .. Open Map sensor circuit Any ideas? I have a fuel injector/throttle body. If I remember correctly I don't have a map sensor. I could very possibly be wrong. I do have a sensor that was attached to the side of my air box that is connected to a vacuume line and 2-3 wires. I can't remember what my mechanic called it, but I also remember being told I was calling it by the wrong name. I'd love to clear out my signals. I've had the 15 for a while, but the

Re: 1988 S10 Pretending to work at a dealership?hmmmmmm omg I should have seen it ealier did you say a starburst wrapper...Theres your problem .....Everyone knows you use a snickers wrapper..on the other hand Junior what size is you engine?.

oh and the EGR and the EGR regulator are two different things also when is the last time you cleaned your throttle body? Re: 1988 S10 Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Tue, Oct 7, 2003, 1:51am (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ) EGR is relatively new, but I suppose the lines going to and from etc could be shot. That helps me clear up the vacuum she-ought but what about the weird feeling in the truck?? I know it's a sucky description - just pretend you work at a dealership :) "Steve Cook" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@storefull-2218.public.lawson.webtv.net... TOP POSTING Sounds to me you should check your EGR regulator which has vacuum lines and a electrical connection.Could just be an old fashion vacuum leak.........Or regulator going out...... Re: 1988 S10 Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Mon, Oct 6, 2003, 11:35pm (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ) Code 15 says> .. cooling sensor or circuit / low temp. indicated Makes sense - my book just says sesor voltage high. I have an aftermarket detector unit in it, always ment to put a T in it so I could have the idiot light as well. That should also fix this code. Code 32 > ..Baro Sensor(carb.models) or . EGR Circuit (fuel injection models) or . Open Map sensor circuit Any ideas? I have a fuel injector/throttle body. If I remember correctly I don't have a map sensor. I could very possibly be wrong. I do have a sensor that was attached to the side of my air box that is connected to a vacuume line and 2-3 wires. I can't remember what my mechanic called it, but I also remember being told I was calling it by the wrong name. I'd love to clear out my signals. I've had the 15 for a while, but the

32 just developed recently. Well after that sensor I described was suspect. I ran the truck for serveral months without that part attached and a starburst wraper suck in the tube! Any help would be nice or an abusive remark from scrib. "KJ" wrote in message news:eQFfb.164068$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... This may be driver paranoia but I think there might be something wrong with my truck. The best way I can describe it is the truck "feels" like every once in a while the back is being bulled on. Not like a lack of power, but like it is getting pulled on. It wont veer, or slow down. Just feels that way. No sound or anything. I know this is sounds ridiculous. The only thing I can tell you for 100% sure is I have the error codes 15 and 32 set in my ECM. Thanks for any help, and don't post making fun of this message I already know I sound retarded. But just you wait, 3 more days I'll be asking how to replace my axle or something. Always one thing or another in this beeter box.

~~ (orig. post.....start of thread)

< INLINE >

I know this is sounds ridiculous.

The only thing I can tell you for 100% sure is I have the error codes

15 and 32 set in my ECM. Thanks for any help, and don't post making fun of this message I already know I sound retarded.

But just you wait, 3 more days I'll be asking how to replace my axle or something. Always one thing or another in this beeter box. ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~

Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Mon, Oct 6, 2003, 11:35pm (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ)

Code 15 says> =A0 .. cooling sensor or circuit / low temp. indicated

Makes sense - my book just says sesor voltage high. I have an aftermarket detector unit in it, always ment to put a T in it so I could have the idiot light as well. That should also fix this code. Code 32 >..Baro Sensor(carb.models) or =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 EGR Circuit (fuel injection models) or =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Open Map sensor circuit

Any ideas?

I have a fuel injector/throttle body. If I remember correctly I don't have a map sensor. I could very possibly be wrong. I do have a sensor that was attached to the side of my air box that is connected to a vacuume line and 2-3 wires. I can't remember what my mechanic called it, but I also remember being told I was calling it by the wrong name. I'd love to clear out my signals. I've had the 15 for a while, but the 32 just developed recently. Well after that sensor I described was suspect, I ran the truck for serveral months without that part attached and a starburst wraper suck in the tube!

Any help would be nice or an abusive remark from Scrib. ~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~ ya'll saw it......he asked for it.......those are his final words ......not mine.....

fool.... bum... retard... slacker...

Now that we have that out the way.......

KJ, I didn't reply to your original post because you asked that no posts be made making fun of your "message".....and then you used the word retard......which is one of the funniest words I've ever come across. So...as much as I wanted to.....I left it alone. But now.......you've actually asked for my input....hehehehehe.....

so here goes........ my advice......

start a clean thread. Do an update repost...... ~1988 S10...code 32....code 15~

When you do the post, list ONLY the symptoms,engine size. tranny, ALL recent repairs, vehical mileage, and a short and to the point "feel" of how the vehicals engine is running, and any excessive oil or fuel consumption issues. Then wait for drivabililty techs in here to start pounding you for info.....and giving you some solid input. Untill then......reattach anything you've unplugged, then take the negative battery cable off for about a minute, then take the truck for a 15 minute test drive and see what codes reset. You're trying to determine if you have "hard" or "soft" codes setting.

You never stated how the truck was running, other than the intermittant "pull" feeling you were having. So about the only good advice your going to get untill you do a comprehensive update post (including a history and description of the way the engine runs), is to jack up the rear end and be sure you don't have a dragging brake.......and address the codes issues. All of which will be guess work without knowing a little more on the vehical. You could always start yanking the EGR, plugs, change the temp sensor, do an exhaust back preasure test, look for shorts in wiring...etc..etc..etc.......

but you'de be well advised to do the update post with a good history, feel , and vehical specs ...so's the input you get is a little more productive.

hopefully helpfull

Scrib Abell ~:~ he actually used the word retard...LMAO.~~

When I first got the hand me down 2.5L beeeter it ran like shit if it started at all. I could see that the spray was crappy from the injector so I ran allot of gas/injector cleaner through it - which is hard to do when it doesn't want to just run. Then I changed the fuel injector, and that let it run well until I was literally 50 feet away from the shop for my 'brake tag' Well I basically rolled it there and passed - drove back at 5mph. Couldn't for the life of my find out what it was sent it to my mech and he replaced the EGR and all was good. The gas lines have/had been all removed and checked, throttle body removed and disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled. As for the starburst wrapper - whatever you have on the side of the highway has to do. BTW the feeling is getting worse. I'm wondering if it might just need an alignment - 3 of my tires I know to be balanced. Been driving on a full sized spare for about 1.5 weeks which I don't know it to be balanced for sure or not, but it had this feeling (though less so) before my tire died.