4" lift.

I was quoted $3500 approximatly for a 4" lift, tires,wheel installed. does that sound about right?

Reply to
mat
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What year, make, model? is this a 4x4? What brand of lift? What tires? Wheels included? you need to give the group a lot more info before anyone could possibly help you.

Reply to
Rusted

les shwab does it not sure on brand, it was a broad quote, no real details. was just curious if the #rs seem right. the rims would have 35's on them probaly 16" maybe 15"

Reply to
mat

Sounds reasonable to me as long as you're getting top-quality work and gear. I put a suspension lift on my friend's '97 4Runner (2.5" front, 3" rear). Charged him $350 for labor. He paid $900 for Donohoe Racing coilovers for the front, $300 for Old Man Emu rear suspension. Set of 5 bead-lock wheels were $1250, 5 - BFG all-terrain 33" tires another $1200 (with road-hazard protection -- worth EVERY PENNY). More recently, he had a local shop put on a 3" body lift for $400 total.. (which i think is a ripoff, but at least I didn't have to do it!)..

A couple of things he didn't get that I would suggest are lengthened brake lines and sway-bar disconnects. As they are now, the brake lines are stretched to the limit (I told him about it and it's apparently not that important), and I had to completely remove the rear sway bar (actually, anti-roll bar)

Reply to
Celica Dude

With 35s and 3.08s I would be worried a bit about axle wrap... Power would definitely suffer all-around... The driveline will probably be okay, but be prepared to check and replace all wearing parts more often with increased angles of dangles. About the brake lines -- all I can say is that ~$100 is the going rate for a set of nice, braided-steel brake lines (that's about the same price as stock GM ones) that are lengthened. If the brake lines are under *ANY* stress at all, they need to be lengthened. Chances are, 4" is enough to stress them out at full lock on the steering or if you happen to articulate the suspension more than the line was designed to handle...

My friend took his truck to Merchant's Tire for the tires... long story short, there was a clearance problem with the wheels he bought (calipers rubbed inside) so the bonehead mechanic had to remove the calipers and grind on them .. Instead of doing what any smart person would do and put a plug in the now dripping brake lines, this *seasoned veteran* took a pair of needle-nosed vise grips and clamped the lines shut. Nevermind the fact that there's a tube inside the rubber hose of a flexible brake line that is collapsable.. screw it. That day, my friend said "My brakes feel really weird.." I reminded him of what he told me about the mechanic. Oh well, he still has the stressed-out, collapsed-internally flexible lines and drives the truck all the time. Personally -- I don't like to gamble.

Sway bar disconnects -- you might be able to just get lengthened sway-bar links instead of disconnects. If your truck has sway bars (actually, anti-roll bars) and you spend most of your time on the street with the truck, then you will definitely want to keep them intact.

Reply to
Celica Dude

Im startint to think that id be better or waiting and buying another truck with more of the right gear. For example, higher rear diff ratio, fresher trany and engine, plus the heavy duty axle's, ive currently got light duty 6 lug.

Reply to
mat

Yep, if this truck is your daily driver and you depend on it for reliable transportation, i would definitely consider getting a "play" vehicle to which you can do whatever you want... You'll definitely be a lot happier with your lifted truck if you don't have to drive it all the time in traffic (and break parts around town)..

Reply to
Celica Dude

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