The rivets holding the upper ball joint on my 90 4x4 were a bear to get out. The upper control arm is tubular instead of stamped... I think it's that way on all 4x4s in that model range (88-98)? Guess the extra thickness made them harder to get out.
Firestone quoted me $106 (1.3 hrs) labor to do that job... would have been worth every penny. Of course they were ripping on the part - $80. Got a lifetime TRW from Advance for $30.
Tom
The best way to remove GM factory rivets is: Use a flat bit in a Air Chisel to break the heads off (some holes are tappered). Then use a drift punch in a air chisel to remove the rivet body. Only use bits for air hammers/air chisels in said tools. Charles
I use an air chisel to cut the heads off, after I drill them. Otherwise you can oval the holes. an extra step that takes just a few minutes that can save you some grief.
Whitelightning
I have also used a high speed die grinder too to remove rivets heads with great success too.
You must be using a air drill with good quiality bits.
Some controll arms I might do that on, all depends on the set up. Some controll arms I chisel both heads off before driving the shank out.
The key to ball joint service is to have good quality pnewmatic tools, and bits/accessiors for them. Like my air chisel has a Mac Quick Change Collet, instead of the stanard spring retainer. Not only does it make the bits easier to change, I have far less incidents of bits coming out.
Charles If I had the tools and equpiment I have now when I was 16, I could have retired for life.
Grind the heads off with a good die grinder and it is a lot quicker than drilling it then air chiseling it. With the grinder, you only need to get it pretty thin and then use a good puch with a hammer and it will shave the rest of the head off as you punch it through. I have done this more than once too.
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