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93 Silverado 1500 V6 StepSide .. Dealing with Rust? Potential Project Truck

I've got a thing for the 90s Stepsides. I just want to have on the side to work on.. does not need to be a show car.

I found this guy who's selling his 93 v6 stepside. It's got some rust on the hood and roof.. questions about that. It runs and drives damn good for a 93. Only problem I see is that it pulls right when I brake. He says he does not know why.

Clearly it's going to need some body work, paint, tires, an alignment.. possibly brake work.

Here's the deal, he won't go lower than $1500.. good deal?

This will sound crazy, but I'm planning to paint it myself in a black Satin.. again I don't care if it don't come out professional .. I just want this truck in black satin and don't want to pay $1000 for a paint job.

A bit concerned about that Rust - how would you handle this? The rust appears to be peaking through a DIY attempt to fix from months ago. Also, the driver side door bites the fender as I open it.

Crazy idea to go from white to black without a pro paint job? What could that pulling on brake be? and how much might it cost? I ran the car hard for 15 minutes and it sat running for another 15.. no leaks, smoke or sounds.. it seemed very strong. The owner has not been able to close the deal with me, because it's his daily driver and he drives about 30 miles a day in it... which I think is very good news.

Just in case, If I buy the truck, I think I can easily resell for a profit just by polishing the rims, cleaning up the rust and giving it a good wash... To be on the safe side I think I might invest in the DIY Paint before I get into tires and alignment. I think I can paint it for under $200, but 2-3 weeks of teadious work. I just think Black has more appeal.. and Satin black looks so much better.

Finally, it's a V6 and not a V8. Does that significantly reduce it's value or interest as a project truck. Worth it to put a Flowmaster 40 on it?.. it's a 4.6L and sounds pretty rich for a V6. Also, power from the engine was actually better than a V8 I drove.

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Reply to
jc
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I'm a *little* concerned that the rust is around the windshield, but it doesn't look that bad. Is there any rust on the side panels where it might be rusting thru from the back side?

You can use Rustoleum red primer on the rust and that will kill it (gotta get the old paint off first if any rust is painted-over). Then after the red primer has had *plenty* of time to cure, you can use automotive gray primer over it so you can paint it. BTDT with a Subaru that had rust damage from a repair that wasn't done properly before I bought it. I drove it for 5 more years and the rust never came back.

No matter how bad a truck looks, as long as it runs it is still a truck and is worth something. I sold a '76 C20 a few years ago that looked like s*** with rust holes all over, and floorboards rotted completely out for $800. (that was a great truck; kind of wish I still had it)

Bob

Reply to
zxcvbob

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$800 seems to be the magic LOW number for 70-80s C10/C20/K10/K20 with major body issues. A real tribute to those trucks that so many seem to outlive their bodies. I've seen many going for that price and in that condition. The irony is you can so easily spend $800 in a garage if a few thing break down .. a radiator, water pump, fuel pump. I was looking at this one GA that was completely a pile of rust. also $800.. owner said it ran and drove like a sewing machine.. I was tempted because It had a set Torq Thrust Rims that were easily worth $500 by themselves.

Thanks.

Reply to
jc

Reply to
None4U

Brush or roller?

Ducking and running, (ouch) Bob

Reply to
zxcvbob

The so called "trim rollers" are great. Allow you a lot of coverage in a hurry. With a full size roller, you have to roll up and down, account of the curvature.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

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