'95 S-10 P/U - Ignition Switch?

What problem are you having?

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What problem are you having?

The truck will emit a loud buzzing from the dash. Then the power will fluctuate, then it may stall. Various red lights will come on temporarily then go away. Once it is restarted it will be fine. The key will also stick on occasion. This is all intermittent.

I believe that you are speaking of the electrical ignition switch with a mention of your keyed ignition switch.

On a 95 GM ignition lock, it would be fairly unusual if the ignition lock did not stick a little. There are several problems with these locks, one, as the key and tumblers wear, the lock will begin sticking. The cure is to get a new key but not a duplicate as when you get a duplicate of a worn key, you are simply duplicating your problem, you will get the same result unless by some miracle the key cutter is off a little and cuts a few thousands higher. The dealer can cut you a new key by code if you find a dealer where they actually know how to keep their code cutting equipment adjusted and also know how to use it. Some do, some don't.

A locksmith can take your key, decode it and code cut you a new key, call for pricing, if you call 10 locksmiths, you'll probably get 10 different prices.

The ignition lock is very tight with little clearance and contains 9 tumblers plus incorporates what is called a sidebar which makes it somewhat high security. On the other hand the door locks on your truck are very sloppy and contain 5 tumblers and are easy to manipulate. If you have a key that sticks in your igniton but works well in the doors, that is normal as explained above.

The tumblers and springs on the GM double sided igniton lock sit on the bottom of the keyway and when you insert your key, any dirt that is in the area will eventually gum up your lock.

Locks like to be cleaned and lubricated, one decent cleaner is WD40 and several good lubricants are a dry silicone in a spray can or TriFlo which is teflon based and also comes in a spray can. A can of compressed air will blow the WD40 out before using the lube.

If my 96 Sierra ignition lock started sticking, here is what I would do: Pull the igniton lock, remove all 9 tumblers and springs, clean everything, replace with new tumblers, decode and cut a new key, lube, reinstall. The job would take about 15 minutes because I have done many, fact is my first job of the day was on a 95 full sized GM pickup, same exact set up as yours, key would no longer turn the igniton lock. As is turned out, both the key and tumblers were worn and I replaced both for the customer.

You may want to get a quote from a locksmith to do this job, you can purchase a new OEM lock from the dealer. The locks are sold uncoded and you are expected to have a locksmith code it for you to match your key.

PROBLEM TWO, Electrical igniton switch

I have replaced several electrical igniton switches on GM trucks thus far, the first one took me about an hour and a half, the second about

15 minutes less and I have the correct tools.

The electrical ignition switch sits directly under the keyed ignition lock, it is a black plastic box like affair with many wires coming off of it. You need several special tools for removal, one for the upper part of the shroud, a female torx, I forget the exact size; just know where it is in my tool box, and two, another female torx of yet a smaller size to remove the electrical ignition itself. If you have a dedicated 1/8 inch nut driver that is slim, you can use that for the switch removal. I think that the upper shroud removal torx tool would then be equivelant to a 3/16 inch as it is a little larger size.

The job is not for the weak at heart or the non mechanically inclined and I have no idea of your standing in that regard so I don't want to type a zillion words only to find out that you will pay someone to do the job.

As for testing on that year, I suppose that you can plug the new switch harness into where the old harness plugs in. Then you could start the vehicle using a screwdriver at the new harness ignition lock tailpiece slot. Good luck.

That is a strange one. The buzzing is maybe a relay. Probably something else causing the relay to buzz. I would guess you have a power problem that could be the ign switch. I've never witnessed one do that though. Try starting it up and pushing/moving the fuses in the panel and see if you can duplicate it that way. it could just be a coroded/loose fuse. Check the ECM/fuel pump fuse closely, or just change it. I think the fuel pump relay is in the center/lower part of the dash on that truck. If that is where the buzz comes from that will give you an idea. You could also idle it and wiggle wires under the dash and hood to see if you get lucky finding the bad connection(if that is what it is). Good Luck.

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of the switch from your discription. The electrical parts on this truck are far better than anything your friend can come up with. You can have him put in a push button starter switch but it wont help you at all. If you *really* want to try the ign switch it is only about $30 at a parts store. Your electrical genious friend should be able to change it in 15 minutes. Post back if he cant find it ;)

If that switch is that expensive I wouldnt replace it for fun. With the truck running try turning the key ever so slightly and slowly forward and back(not so far as to kill it or start) and see if it duplicates the problem. Also wiggle wires and fuses maybe you will get lucky. GL

Well I have checked fuses, different key motions, different keys, I have checked the wires in the truck interior and in the engine bay. Nothing is glaring. The ignition switch is $122 off the net, and there are two versions (not sure which to get either). The $tealer wants $360 for the job. I can even go to an audio store and get the button starter for $150 (that's a high quote too).

change the relay that is buzzing.

The keyed ignition switch is nothing more than a glorified screwdriver, if the switch turns, that's its only function.

The only two versions of electrical ignition switches that I know about are the pass lock style with an extra connector and the non pass lock style. Pass Lock started in 97 or 98 for the pickup truck so a

95 would not incorporated it. The Pass Lock system incorporates a sensor that is mounted over the ignition lock plug , there is a magnet imbedded in the plug and when the key is turned the sensor reads the magnet (Hall's Effect) and starts only if the correct value is reached. The theory being that if someone forced your ignition lock, the magnet breaks causing a non-start situation. Your vehicle does not have this system, perhaps the switch you need will be cheaper. Locally they are $92. from the dealer if you have a tax number.

Replacing the electrical ignition switch can solve hard shift problems on automatic transmissions as wiring for the shift solenoids run through the electrical switch. The switch incorporates 6 electrical contacts which tend to wear over use causing a transmission to not shift into second gear or starting out in second gear, tachometer jumping around but don't know about a buzzing from under the dash. Did you check for angry wasps?

I think angry wasps are what the S-10 uses for the engine. Remember I have the manual tranny too. I have a feeling this will remain a mystery until I am dead on the road.