96 GMC Sierra Radiator leaking at oil connection

I discovered that the upper oil connector at the radiator (drivers side) is leaking dexcool mix around the fitting. I priced radiators at around $300.

Having done a fair amount of plumbing in the past, I decided I would try something, not sure if it will work but I will post a follow up, I am looking for comments at this point.

I removed the large, outer coarse threaded nut from the fitting leaving the oil cooler line in place, when I removed the large nut the coolant leaked a lot more, made a small stream.

I then took a length of graphite rope, 3/16 inch diameter and coated it well with blue RTV silicone, wrapped the coated rope around the fitting up against the radiator, made a gasket and put that next to the coated graphite rope and tightened the large coarse nut down fairly tight. I will let the silicone cure overnight and a part of tommorow at which time I will drive the vehicle.

My question is, has anyone had any experience with this problem and can the fitting itself be tightened? I was afraid to try tightening the fitting, in my mind I saw a large stream of coolant flowing, just call it paranoia?

Ideas, suggestions?

Sincerely,

Rod Williams

96 GMC Sierra, 5.7 Vortex
Reply to
Rod Williams
Loading thread data ...

It may hold for awhile but I think that it will probably start leaking again after the system is pressurized. But, I once used body putty to seal a nasty leak in a radiator core tube after a stone went through it. That patch held for a couple of days until I could replace the radiator.

****************************************** I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it. ~ Thomas Jefferson ~
Reply to
Rich B

Thanks for the info. I had a friend years ago who came out of a supermarket and saw that her radiator was leaking badly, she didn't know what to do but she opened the hood and grabbed a potato from her grocery bag, stuffed it in the radiator hole and that solved the problem until she quit driving the car more than a year later. She said that it plugged the leak and boiled the potato at the same time.

I have replaced many a radiator over the years but never on a 96 or newer Sierra, are there any special tools needed or any hazards to look for when doing this job?

Rod Williams

Reply to
Rod Williams

UPDATE - UPDATE - UPDATE

The silicone coated graphite cord did nothing at all, the leak was still there after driving only a short distance. I again removed the big outer nut as well as the inner oil connection. I cleaned up my mess, then used a thick rubber O ring around the fitting, tightened the big nut and put the oil connection back on tight.

Drove the truck about 20 miles yesterday and a few miles this morning with no leak in evidence. I noticed that when the oil connection is removed and the big nut is off, the threaded portion that goes into the radiator is like a stud, you can push in on it and watch the coolant pour out. I assume that is normal, haven't checked the others.

Reply to
Rod Williams

"Rod Williams" wrote

It's actually a small heat exchanger that sits inside the right tank of the radiator. It extends from the top to the bottom, comes out thru the plastic tank and the big nuts simply pull it tight against the tank and seal it. (there are gaskets inside). Unless you have other problems, simply tightening the big nut should fix the leak. I see these starting to seep dexcool all the time, once they get a few miles on them. Usually the nut can be tightened up a bit...and it's fine.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

Thank you for taking the time to clear up my puzzlement. I now understand the system. I have been an automotive locksmith and column repair specialist (selected models) for the past 28 years, if you ever need any advice, get in touch.

Rod Williams Phoenix, Az.

Reply to
Rod Williams

"Rod Williams" wrote

So you are familiar with GM's infamous tilt columns...eh? Ahhhh...the money I've made fixing those columns on theft recovery work orders!

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

I started out tightening them up in the Seventies, replacing broken racks and plastic gears, turn signal cancel springs, everything that went wrong with the Saginaw, also used on AMC and Chrysler tilt. When GM went to the lighter plastic housing around 79/80 the fun began, the thieves figured out how to steal the vehicles using them and the news media including PBS relayed the information on the airwaves then the fun really, really began. I have repaired hundreds and to this day I don't like to, I'd rather tighten them or do other repairs, I think it's chicken crap that people break them on purpose creating higher insurance rates for us all including the thieves, the thieves mothers, fathers, sister, brothers, aunts, uncles and cousins. Thieves have dug a big hole for everyone and it will take a long time for recovery on an economic level.

The newer GM columns, the CSS and car style with the double sided key, there are a lot of problems with the lock, they tend to jam up, at least the first 3 tumblers do. The springs and tumblers on these locks are on the bottom, keep them clean and lubed. The most common problem is a worn key, the key will still work the sloppy doors and trunk but the sidebar, tight ignitions with the 9 tumblers have very little play. Have your keys made by a locksmith, the discount stores don't know much about servicing their own key machines and they are often out of adjustment, same for the dealer. I have made more bucks from dealers cutting keys by code simply because their code equipment is seriously out of adjustment, the keys won't work for the customer and usually the code is good including the vats (pass) key resistance number if equipped, so I use them and clip out a good key. Most but not all locksmith are trained and continue training for their entire career. Of course there are good and bad in every profession as you no doubt are aware of.

I also repair Ford columns, the racks, the actuators, just about everything. The actuator on Ford columns of the seventies were heavy brass or a mix thereof and would not split where the actuator rod is affixed. In the eighties Ford went to a thinner, lighter metal and they break easy causing great headaches for those who drive them.

In the ninties on Ford, if you don't lubricate your shift lever plastic bushings, the shift level will break right into and you are stuck.

I am a commercial locksmith, meaning that I am not yellow page, my rates are commercial which are much less than a locksmith who pays five grand a month for advertising. I am strictly mobile and have had many of the same clients for the 28 years that I have been in business. I am a member of a secure international locksmith site where members from all over the world share info and help each other. We have members in most every country in the world including Russia and Japan.

Consumers get ready for Transponders keys and having your Toyoto's and Lexus' reflashed if you lose your key, great expense. If you think getting a new key was a pain in the butt, you haven't seen nothing yet. Transponder technology came about because the Berlin Wall was torn down. Think about that for a minute...

The East Germans had pieces of crap vehicles and when the wall came down, car theft rates in the West went wild. The Germans had to do something so they invented transponders and their use has spread worldwide.

If thieves only had a brain, by their ignorant efforts they have brought this upon the world and again, their own families are paying the price along with everyone else.

Take care,

Rod

Reply to
Rod Williams

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.