'97 Suburban low oil pressure

1997 suburban K1500, 5.8L engine, 120,000 miles, 2000 Miles since last oil change (5w30 with a NAPA filter). Motors shot now, but I'm trying to figure out what failed. Here's what happened.

Was driving on a 2 lane state highway in the foothills of Colorado. On an incline up a steep hill, the lane widened to 2 on my side, so I accellerated to pass a bus that was in front of me, and the car shifted down to second and stayed there for the duration of the climb up the hill (about 1 minute, roughly 3500 to 4000 rpms, wasn't paying too much attention).

After backing off at the top of the hill, I notice a lack of power and a knock developed. Unfortunately, there was no shoulder, so I couldn't pull over. Went down the hill and started up another, and noticed a marked degradation in engine power while ascending the second hill. Engine temp was also increasing (~210) and the oil pressure was ~20 psi @ 3000 rpm (low for this car). Power degradation continued to get worse and the car shifted down to 2nd to maintain speed, which was steadily decreasing. Oddly enough, I noticed no valve knock, so there enough pressure to keep the lifters pumped. =20

At the top of the second hill, the shoulder on the road was wide enough to pull over, which I immediately did and killed the engine. Upon stopping, oil pressure dropped to zero and the engine temp was ~240.

I thought at first that maybe the thermostat stuck closed which caused the overheat, which could cause the oil to thin so much that the pressure dropped . I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then tried to start it. Heard the heart-rending sound of metal screeching and the engine was very difficult to turn over. I called a tow truck and made it home that way (wife was not pleased!).

Got it off the tow truck and for grins, I tried to start it. It fired right up (no lifter knock), but the pressure was low, ~10psi. I put it in gear and pulled it into the drive, where it sits now. I checked the oil, and sure enough, there's metal shavings in it, so the motors shot, but I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. Any ideas? And any recommendations on where to get a long block in Colorado without getting taken by a dealer?

Some more background: About a month ago, right before driving from Colorado to Indiana for vacation, I changed the radiator due to a small coolant leak. Shortly after (2 days later), the oil pressure dropped to ~5psi while sitting at a stop light, but jumped up to 20 when driving. I got the car home (was only 1 mile away), and stuck an oil pressure gauge on. It read ~25 psi at idle (after the engine had cooled off a bit), so I suspected a faulty oil sending unit. I changed that and also changed the oil (valvoline durablend 5w30 and a NAPA oil filter). The pressure appeared fine after that (~15-20 psi at idle, ~25-30 psi @2500 rpm), and I took it on vacation. We arrived back home last week, total mileage was 2000.

So now I'm wondering if there's some connection between the first oil pressure problem and this one. Could the new radiator's oil cooler cause this problem if it was partially plugged? I just find it odd that all these problems occured after I changed the radiator. =20

I've got a motor to replace, but I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas as to why this one failed. Seems like if it was the oil pump getting weak, it should've been a gradual thing, not all at once like this.

Reply to
Pat Kusbel
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You may have dislodged some old bearing material out of the cooler, who knows? I am not a real big fan of 5w30 its just too hot down here for it in a 100k motor that gets ran hard and long. Not that that would have helped. I replaced main and rod bearings in my 98 @130k. Oil test revealed bearing material. I could tell they were "stressed" with 5W30 oil in the Texas heat.

The PSI went from 40psi at 2000 rpm to 60psi at 2000 rpm with the new bearings and a new pump.

Sorry for you troubles. If you have a place to do the longblock, order one and have it delivered to your shop. You might try to find a local that can lend a hand.

Its a pain to do the tow dolly deal, you will have to take out the driveshaft to protect the rear transmission pump. Trailer is better if you have a good tow rig. I once rented a 18 footer truck and trailer from U-Haul to get me and a rig home. I was very desperate... made it back in 16 hours... and slung the rods out of their rig..

Best of fortune to you

mike

1997 suburban K1500, 5.8L engine, 120,000 miles, 2000 Miles since last oil change (5w30 with a NAPA filter). Motors shot now, but I'm trying to figure out what failed. Here's what happened.

Was driving on a 2 lane state highway in the foothills of Colorado. On an incline up a steep hill, the lane widened to 2 on my side, so I accellerated to pass a bus that was in front of me, and the car shifted down to second and stayed there for the duration of the climb up the hill (about 1 minute, roughly 3500 to 4000 rpms, wasn't paying too much attention).

After backing off at the top of the hill, I notice a lack of power and a knock developed. Unfortunately, there was no shoulder, so I couldn't pull over. Went down the hill and started up another, and noticed a marked degradation in engine power while ascending the second hill. Engine temp was also increasing (~210) and the oil pressure was ~20 psi @ 3000 rpm (low for this car). Power degradation continued to get worse and the car shifted down to 2nd to maintain speed, which was steadily decreasing. Oddly enough, I noticed no valve knock, so there enough pressure to keep the lifters pumped.

At the top of the second hill, the shoulder on the road was wide enough to pull over, which I immediately did and killed the engine. Upon stopping, oil pressure dropped to zero and the engine temp was ~240.

I thought at first that maybe the thermostat stuck closed which caused the overheat, which could cause the oil to thin so much that the pressure dropped . I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then tried to start it. Heard the heart-rending sound of metal screeching and the engine was very difficult to turn over. I called a tow truck and made it home that way (wife was not pleased!).

Got it off the tow truck and for grins, I tried to start it. It fired right up (no lifter knock), but the pressure was low, ~10psi. I put it in gear and pulled it into the drive, where it sits now. I checked the oil, and sure enough, there's metal shavings in it, so the motors shot, but I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. Any ideas? And any recommendations on where to get a long block in Colorado without getting taken by a dealer?

Some more background: About a month ago, right before driving from Colorado to Indiana for vacation, I changed the radiator due to a small coolant leak. Shortly after (2 days later), the oil pressure dropped to ~5psi while sitting at a stop light, but jumped up to 20 when driving. I got the car home (was only 1 mile away), and stuck an oil pressure gauge on. It read ~25 psi at idle (after the engine had cooled off a bit), so I suspected a faulty oil sending unit. I changed that and also changed the oil (valvoline durablend 5w30 and a NAPA oil filter). The pressure appeared fine after that (~15-20 psi at idle, ~25-30 psi @2500 rpm), and I took it on vacation. We arrived back home last week, total mileage was 2000.

So now I'm wondering if there's some connection between the first oil pressure problem and this one. Could the new radiator's oil cooler cause this problem if it was partially plugged? I just find it odd that all these problems occured after I changed the radiator.

I've got a motor to replace, but I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas as to why this one failed. Seems like if it was the oil pump getting weak, it should've been a gradual thing, not all at once like this.

Reply to
JAG

Gonna do it in the garage, cherry picker's on order, hopefully will get it by friday:) Already got the new motor disconnected, just need to hook up the hoist and disconnect the tranny. NAPA has longblocks for $1600 with a 3-year warranty, so I'm gonna go that route as well as upgrading my 2-bolt main to a 4-bolt main. I'll definitely look at the bearings as you suggest. Really curious as to why it failed. These things shouldn't be going bad at only 120k. You'd figure that GM would do something about this.

Went one better: had a flatbed tow it. My wife was smart enough to add towing coverage to our insurance (2 bucks every 6 months), so it'll cover the cost of the tow.

thanks, Pat

Reply to
Pat Kusbel

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