98 Blazer starting problems

CY: Just checked. With key on, both ignition module and ignition coil have 12 volt power.

CY: I did have failure a week or so ago, and a new ignition module did the job. On this engine, the module is on the metal frame that holds the ignition coil. Yesterday, I tried two other modules. I also tried another ignition coil.

(or both, A bad pickup coil can cause the module to

CY: Last thing yesterday was to replace the crankcase sensor, and that didn't help. Wonder if I have a bad pickup coil, which has killed a module or two?

CY: The sensor plug is coated in grease, and I don't have a helper. Sorry, unable to perform this test.

CY: Not sure about the 12 volts at crank sensor.

CY: Could be....

Reply to
Stormin Mormon
Loading thread data ...

Had the truck towed to a garage. The fellow found the ignition coil had gone bad, and was eating modules. He put on a coil and module from another engine, and it runs again.

I did try a different coil, but by that time I'd fried all the ignition modules I had on hand. Such is the breaks.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Thursday Oct 08, 2015

About seven weeks ago, I bought spark plugs and planned to put them in with the help of my neighbor, Steve, who is a retired mechanic.

Five weeks ago, today, I was going down the road and the van engine suddenly quit. I rolled off to a safe place, and tried the starter. It would not restart. I tried a new ignition module. My enighbor Steve and I tried a distributor pickup coil. No joy.

A friend and I pulled the van to a repair agarage, who had it for about two weks. No joy.

Paid for a flatbed tow to yet anothr garage, who had it about a week and found the ignition coil had gone bad. By this time I was shopping for replacement vehicle.

Wednesday I'm on the way home from looking at a van for sale.

Garage two called, van is fixed and ready to go. Me: "It starts, stops, and runs?" Yep. I got there with a ride, and the van didn't start. The mechanic got it going, said it was flooded, and I ought to put new spark plugs in.

Got the van home. About an hour later, I had a service call come in. Yippee, take the van. But the van would not start. Take the Blazer. Call Steve, and arrange to have him change the spark plugs tomorrow AM.

So, it's morning. I pull the motor cover. The first two sparks, 6 and 8, didn't look "too bad", and so I changed em out. The next couple were hard to reach, but I got em. Those were 5 and 7. By this time I am getting the hang of it, so I went after 2 and 4. As GM mechanics know, 1 and 3 are under the master brake cylinder. Finally I tried them from laying on the ground, working blind by feel. That worked out OK after a long while.

And the van starts like it WANTS to run. I took it to a service call, and it did good. Surges a bit, might have a bad vacuum hose. Get that some day, or other.

No need to transfer registration. No week of moving tools from one vehicle to another. Might get better mileage. And need to replace all the vacuum hoses, some day soon.

- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .

formatting link
. .

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Thursday October 08, 2015

Friday a week ago, the fuel pump went intermittent.

Monday got a used fuel pump. Steve and I spent the day installing it, only to find it's got the different plug and won't work.

Tuesday, track down a plug. Get that going, finally.

Wednesday take the Blazer on a service call. Coming out of store, heading home. Took four tries to get the engine to start.

Good thing I've found another one, and have plans to trade this old machine in, one days next week.

Wish me luck! Hope the Blazer lasts that long.

- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .

formatting link
. .

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Thanks for the wishes of luck. I did limp the old rusty machine to a friend's house in South Carolina. Went the next day to look at another truck. Ended up buying one of the same year, model, package, color, etc. The replacement needs a lot of work, and will be posting a bit about that, over the next few weeks.

Wipers, radio, stinks like cigarettes, door panels aren't clipped on, and totally needs an oil change. All things that can be fixed.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Hope you didn't pay too much ( like more than scrap value) for it.

Reply to
clare

Some rain last night. For the last several years, the van won't start when it's wet.

Today, it started. I call that progress.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

When you consider the options, I did very well.

And it has less rust than most vehicles in my area.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

And that is saying much???

Reply to
clare

For whatever reason, the OBDII refuses to read. Not only for me, abut also for the guy from Auto zone. I took it in for a free code scan.

The autozone guy said the computer runs off the power from the lighter socket. And occurs to me to check the fuses.

I bought a bulb tester at Harbor Freight, percent off, plus coupon and free iteme with purchase. I'm amazed they stay inbusiness.

Next day, I checked all the fuses under the hood. Bonnet, for our UK readers. And all the fuses which has power one side, had power the othe side.

Open the drivrs side door, and check the fuses in the panel by the door. One little tiny blue one had power one side but noth other. I pulled the fuse to find the filament was open. Replace with a same size fuse from my old parts.

Now try the OBDII, and it works. Throwing a couple codes which I recorded. And then cleared the codes.

Hope that helps a bit. Hope the light turns off.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

What were the codes?

Yep the lighter circuit also powers the OBDII port. It doesn't power the ECM but when you plug a scan tool/reader into the port, the power turns on the reader and signals the ECM that a reader is connected.

Reply to
Steve W.

If you cleared the codes it also reset the CEL to off. If it is back on one of those codes is a "hard code" and you have a definite problem - the light will NOT go out by itself unless the bulb burns out. What were the codes? Might be able to tell you what you need to fix.

Reply to
clare

OBDII trouble codes (two of them) says running lean. What are some of the common causes?

Bad mass air flow sensor? Clogged injectors? Poor quality gasoline?

And what to be done about the code?

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

p0171 system too lean p0174 system too lean p0452 Evap emission system pressure sensor low P1870 (not in my book) P0171 pd P0174 pd

Thanks for any and all help.

- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .

formatting link
. .

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Well, a day or two later, the CEL light is back on.

Actually, the SES light. Same idea. Perhaps Monday I'll check and see which of the codes came back. Sure WOULD be nice to get the SES light to go out because that's NEEDED for safety INSPECT.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Little net search finds 1870. Yes, I was having rough shifting from 1 to 2nd gear.

formatting link
Wonder how much that costs?

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

P0171 OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description System Too Lean

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 has detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust).

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as: a lack of power detonation (spark knock) rough idle hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty

[Don't know the vehicle history. But the air filter had some black oil on it, so I used the filter from my last vehicle.]

There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.

[Who knows?]

There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection Faulty or stuck open PCV valve

[PCV not all that expensive. Vehicle does use a lot of motor oil, might be PCV.]

Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) [Who can tell? ]

Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector [Hope not.]

Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!) [No way to know the maint history of this vehicle. Fuel filter is fairly cheap, about $15.]

Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor Possible

Solutions A lot of times, cleaning the MAF sensor and finding/fixing vacuum leaks fix the problem. If you're on a tight budget, start there, but that may not be the fix for certain. So, possible solutions include: Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool

© 2004-2015 OBD-Codes.com

Read more at:

formatting link
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Exactly what codes do yo have? Give me the number. A split vacuum hose can do it. A plugged injector can do it. A bad fuel pressure regulator can do it. A bad mass airflow sensor can do it. A bad ambient air temperature sensor can do it. Or you could have an O2 sensor malfunctioning telling the engine it is running too lean, while the engine belches black smoke from running way too rich.

Reply to
clare

Well, to start with you have either a leak in your evap control system or a bad pressure sensor (or wiring to it) in the fuel tank - AND a slipping transmission. That's your 0452 and 1870, respectively. Then you have the vehicle running lean on both banks - which is quite possibly a fuel pressure (or fuel delivery) problem, or a bad vacuum leak - which COULD be related to the 0452 error. - or to the 1870 error

With the lean engine running problem AND a slipping transmission, the first thing I would check is the line to the AT vacuum modulator valve, or possibly the valve itself - and transmission fluid level. If the fluid level is low and there is oil in the vacuum line, you have a classic case of a ruptured modulator valve - which will also make the vehicle smoke like a fiend when you re-fill the transmission.

A bad modulator will generally also cause harsh shifting of the transmission - and delayed upshifts, due to the transmission thinking you are under heavy load or full throttle accelleration.

If the thermostat is bad and the engine never warms up, the clutch in the lock-up torque converter will never engage which MIGHT give you a code for transmission slipping - but my bet is you will need a transmission overhauled or replaced.

Like I said when you bought it, I hope you got it for the right price

- meaning not a dollar over scrap price. With your level of automotive knowledge, buying older vehicles, in particular, is a very dicey proposition, because you simply do NOT know what to look for.

I, on the other hand, DO know what to look for, and generally what to stay away from - and even I bought 2 cars I should never have touched. I bought a 1985 Lebaron wagon that the body was too rusty, particularly since it was also a non-runner with a 2.6 Mitso-Shitty engine in it. I paid $1000 for a $200 car and had to put a complete engine into it, piece at a time. I ended up with $2800 in it in repairs. I DID get 5 years out of it - but it wasn't really a good move.. The guy who bought it for parts when I scrapped it got a really good (for a MitsoShitty) engine as I had done all the updates when I rebuilt it - and a beautifull Mark Cross leather interior (which was partly to blame for my making the decision to buy it in the first place.)

I also bought a 1995 Pontiac TranSport with an overheated 3.8 engine - knowing the engine was scrap and with 275,000km on it. Even with a new crate engine in it, it never was any good - I got about 90,000km on it between bouts of troubleshooting and repairs.

Reply to
clare

Generally $%2800 and up for a complete rebuild. The "and up" is the addition of the new valve body.

Reply to
clare

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.