I bought a 98 conversion van (express/1500) at 123,000 miles. (6 months ago) The anti-lock brake light was on when i bought it. ( from a friend of a friend). My understanding is the brakes still would work, and worst case scenario, it wouldn't use the ABS. I was told the brakes were replaced one year earlier. The brakes worked fine.
Now at 136,000 miles.the pad indicators started scraping so I changed the brake pads. I started getting a burning smell, and thought the pads were just braking in.
However today, after about a 90 mile trip, I parked, and tons of smoke was coming off my front drivers side wheel. I almost started to think something was on fire but it wasn't. The wheel was hot, pouring water on it would make it sizzle and steam. The lug nuts were extra tight even after it cooled down. ( had to use a breaker bar, using my weight and my leg on the four way woudlnt' do it). I didn't even put them on extra tight when ichanged the pads 2 days ago.
I pulled the wheel and caliper for inspection. I found the pads seated correctly, but I found the piston side brake pad had a crack in it in the center of the pad, that seemed to go 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep into the pad. Also that my inside rotor felt like a couple of hills somewhat).
Because the piston was kind of hard to push back when i changed my pads the other day, I'm assuming the problem is a frozen caliper.
I just wanted to post here, and run it by you guys, and make sure i'm on the right track, and that it's not something else, like related to the ABS. I did a newsgroup search, saw one guy say the dealer told him the abs sensor went bad and the hub had to be replaced. He had a simliar sympom of a lot of smoke. Is my tough caliper movement related to the ABS light? probably not right?
Also in that post, he said the smoke was the bearing grease burning and the hub/abs sensor had to be replaced for a huge chunk of money. I'm hoping that's my problem?
Seems to me, the more likely problem is a frozen caliper... so I just wanted to run it by you guys for opinions?
- Is the cracked braking surface the cause of the problem, or result of a problem (caliper or "hilly" rotor feel)?
- Is the rotor on this model such that it has to be "dialed in" if it's removed? (i'm thinking with those hills it may need to be replaced or turned) ?
- as far as the caliper being hard to push back in, what's the best way to check if ti's frozen or not?
- I'm assumig I should return that crack brake pad for a replacement, right? or is it ok?
appreciate your time/help. TIA
- Danny