Alternator Problem

Let me just say up front that this question is about an alternator in a 1992 Pont Bonneville... but I own a Chevy, have been reading this forum for years so I know I'm going to get good info here... and I figure the problem and solution is related to the alternator and not the type of vehicle.

Battery with no load is about 12.7 volts. With engine running and no load the volts _slowly_ increase up to 13.9 volts. This takes about 7 seconds. With lights on, AC blasting, radio on, car stopped but in reverse and turn blinker on, the volts _slowly_ drop down to 12.7. This take about 15 seconds. Then over the period of about a minute, they drop down and stay at

12.3 volts.

We had initially replaced the alternator but had the same problem. After that we found that the cables connected to the battery were very corroded. We cleaned them and then it appeared that the alternator might not have been the problem. This is when we had the original tested, they said it was fine (tested w/o a load) and we put it back in.

When I check my voltage (Chevy S-10!), it jumps right up to 14 volts and no matter what I do, I cannot get it to drop below 14 volts.

I'm under the impression that the regulator is built into the alternator. But even with the new alternator, the voltage slowly rose and fell. I'm under the impression before this problem started that it jumped right up to

14 volts and did not take several seconds.

The replacement alternator was 105 amps. The vehicle does not have a heated windshield or defogger (it's in Florida). I connected a charger to the batter and set it at 10amps. The same readings mentioned above were obtained. I should have disconnected the battery and measured the voltage under a load but I overlooked this.

Any ideas on what the problem may be? What to check? I'm mainly wondering why the volts take so long to increase and decrease and why they drop to

12.3 under load.
Reply to
Todd Copeland
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Voltage slow to increase and slow to decrease is not an issue. Forget about that part. The battery voltage going down with the engine running is what you need to address. First thing to check is if the belt is slipping. Easy test; run the engine with the lights on and the AC blower on hi. Shut off the engine and see if the alternator pulley is hot. It could be very hot, so do not touch it.

Then check the voltage right at the alternator output stud. Use a ground on the engine and preferably use the alternator case. If the voltage is higher at the alternator than it is at the battery you have a bad wire or connection. Temporarily connect a heavy wire directly from the alternator output to the positive battery terminal. Do not disconnect the original wires, just jump them. After connecting the jumper recheck the battery voltage. Let us know what you find.

Al

Reply to
Big Al

While he's doing that, it wouldn't hurt to clean the terminals and cable ends at the battery. Wayne

Reply to
wayne c

first off I think you are expecting too much from that alt, running everything with the car in reverse?!? Do you have a real problem? Or are you just trying to burn up your new alt? When it says 105 amps, expect about 80 at 3000 rpm.

Reply to
ShoeSalesman

Amps, yes... but the volt should be at 12-14 all the time. I never measured the amps, only the volts.

Sitting at idle with the vehicle in gear and the accessories turned on should not burn an alternator up. Millions of people do that hundreds of times each day.

Reply to
Todd Copeland

ok, one more time. Do you have a real problem? Or are you just looking for one? Is your battery good? You said it dropped to 12.3 with EVERYTHING on, idling in gear? right? I'd say your alt is working great. Kick up the rpm a bit and see if it doesn't go up to about 14. I bet it will. Like I said before, I think you are expecting too much from it with the engine idling in gear and everything on. Of coarse it would be best to get the alt AND battery tested properly.

Reply to
ShoeSalesman

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