August 31 2013 brake dragging

Wasn't sure if the right rear brake on my 98 Blazer was ragging. So, this afternoon I had a spare few minute. Take it apart. The pads were rough to remove, had to beat them out with a hammer. They are tough to get out of the anti rattle clips. One anti rattle clip had to be removed, so I could get the pads back on. Put some grease where the ends of the pads meet the metal.

Pads not worn enough to need to replace.

I got home tonight from about a 15 minute drive. Smelled burning brake. Look at them with my IR thermometer. Temps 100 to 130. Right rear about

535F. Guess something didn't go right, and the brake is dragging. Get to take it all apart again. Bother, I hate it when that happens. Now, to wire wheel the mating surfaces with a dremel and some wire wheel or grind stone, and grease it all up, again.
Reply to
Stormin Mormon
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Probably a bad caliper. BTDT more than once.

Reply to
Steve W.

Thanks. Talked to another friend, and he said same. The rubber around the piston is worn, probably got some rust in there. I got some parts, and will be changing out the caliper, tomorrow. Pads and rotor while it's apart.

. Christ>

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Just a quote someone with a name like yours: "This is Usenet, not a web forum."

Reply to
Autumn

Yep, it doesn't take much to hang a piston enough to cause problems. Make sure to use silicone grease on the sliders. Clear ALL the rust off them first, That can cause ton's of problems. Get everything ready to go and swap the brake line as fast as possible. Gravity bleed and then apply the brakes a couple times, then crack the bleeder and compress the piston slightly. That will get all the air out.

Reply to
Steve W.

My mechanic at the shop does gravity bleed, and seems to work for him. I've got a "one man brake bleeder kit" with the sippy cup, and the hose and rubber that goes over the bleeder valve. I've used that a couple times, with great success.

I think it's excellent idea to wire brush off the rust, and grease the slides. And the ends of the pads where they go into the metal holders. Regardless of the fine tune, it's still going to be a lot of work for this old man.

. Christ>

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I'm resting from doing brake work on my truck. I'm getting too old for this. Just changed a pad, rotor, caliper on the one corner of the truck. I ought to change pads on other side, but won't happen today. About two hours. About the time I'd expected it to take.

I've gone back and forth in the driveway, now need to road test and check for excess over heating. I can't imagine it being trouble, with new pads, rotor, and caliper.

Take the caliper back for core charge. They didn't actually charge me the core, trusted me. I'm worthy of their trust, for sure.

I find myself needing a couple 3/4 inch deep black sockets. Where to get a couple loose ones? At the parts store, the socket costs about as much as a full set from HF.

. Christ> Storm>> Thanks. Talked to another friend, and he said

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I'm resting up from a structure fire. Went out at 12:38 am and got back in around 7am. Was the third shortest distance for a call I could ever drive though, House was right behind mine on the next road over! Total of about 300 feet.

Socket wise, I have a couple of the HF sets in my J-Yard box. Haven't had a problem with them. They work as good as the tool truck ones I have, they are a bit thicker walled though.

Reply to
Steve W.

Sad to hear there was a fire. Must have been bad. I live near the border of two departments. I applied to both, and both rejected my ap. Neither provided any reason why.

The one dept, I used to give a young man near me rides to meetings. The dept treated him poorly, and he finally quit in disgust.

I havn't decided what to do with the "need socket" situation. I'll check prices at Advance, Napa, Walmart, HF, and see what I end up doing.

. Christ>>

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

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