Brake question

Have a 88 chevy van. Had to put new brake lines on. Now can't get the bleeders loose to bleed out front brakes. Any ideas on how to get them loose without twisting off. Thanks

Reply to
Kerzz
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I would start with several applications of a penetrating oil over several days....my favorite brand is PB Blaster, the stuff just works, so, a few times a day give the bleeders a little spritz and let it soak in, follow up in a few hours with another little spritz, and repeat for a few days, then get a 6 point socket of the correct size and gently but firmly back out the bleeders. They may still snap, that's just life in the big city, then you get new slave cylinders. Good Luck, Ed

Reply to
Ed White

Blast the area immediately around the bleed nipple with a propane torch. You'll have to work quickly so that the bleed nipple stays "relatively" cooler than the surrounding metal as you try to loosen it. Have a fire extinguisher handy and wear goggles.

Franko

Reply to
Franko

The piston seal and dust boot will just love that. Reman calipers from most auto parts stores for under $25. As low as $13 a piece at AutoZone. $26 for unloaded Raybestos Calipers from AdvancedAuto Parts. The fire extinguisher is good advice, brake fluid burns real good if it gets hot enough. Now then if you have an air compressor and an air hammer, I have used a device called a "blaster" and ample amounts of penetrating fluid and gotten them out. A blaster is an "Extension" that goes in an air hammer, and has a square drive for 3/8 or 1/2 inch impact quality drive sockets and a place about the middle of the shaft for a 3/4" wrench. The vibration breaks the rusted fastener loose and you use the 3/4 wrench to turn it out. But if the caliper has some mileage on it, like on its third brake job, it might be time to think about replacing it. As calipers age the square seal looses its resilience and hardens. It doesn't leak, but not leaking is only half its job, the reason a square seal is used instead of an O-ring is because the seals rolls just a bit when the piston moves out, the tension helps pull the piston back a bit so the pads aren't riding the rotor hard after you release the brakes.Run out in the rotor helps as well. (Every rotor has a tiny bit of run out, don't care how good the lathe is) If the bleeders weren't froze I would say rebuild them. Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

It's an 88', not a 98' so perhaps you just want a cheap way out if the bleeders won't come out or break off. With a helper, just try bleeding them at the line connection.

Reply to
Al Bundy

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