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Can't get brakes to bleed (78 Chevy K10)

I rebuilt the front end on my truck (new ball joints, tie rods, u- joints, etc.) including the calipers and rotors along with wheel cylinders on the back about 8 foot of new brake line new rear rubber brake hose and a new master cylinder. Now, the peddle is very, very soft.

I believe the problem is only with the front. If I take the front brake line off the MC and plug it (leaving only the back brake line attached to the MC) the peddle is very hard. However, with the front line attached the peddle goes right to the floor.

I replaced the bleeder screws on the calipers just in case that was the problem but it didn't help. I have went through about 3 gallons of brake fluid trying to get the fronts bleed. I don't see any leaks anywhere. Any idea where the air could be getting in through? What would you suggest I check next?

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
ngpost1
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Can you put the back brake line on the front master cylinder output then plug the rear output and try it?

Reply to
Meat Plow

Did you put the Calipers on the right side of the Car? I've seen this done a couple times before. They can't get them bleed and it's because the Caliper is on the wrong side and so Air is trapped and impossible to get out. Also did you Bench Bleed the master out first? If all that is right, then a Power Bleeder should do the trick, but you'll have to take it someplace that has one. There could be some other problem, but without checking it out it's hard to say.

Reply to
JBDragon

Bleeder should be on the top on the calipers. If not you have the left and right swapped. Also a way to tell if there is air in the system is to pump up the brakes. Just depress severl times rapidly and see if the pedel firms up. If it does not then air is not the problem. Also hold the pedal down after the last pump. If the pedel stays firm and does not go to the floor slowly then the master cylinder is OK. If after you pump them up the pedel slowly creeps to the floor then the master cylinder is bad and will need rebuilt or trreplaced. If you did the back brakes they absolutly have to be in adjustment or the pedal will stay down and now have a full or good feel. The rear brakes , based upon design, will only adjust up while applying the brakes in motion (reverse if I remebr). If they are out of adjustment they may come back after a few dozen miles and applying the brakes. If all you did was replace the rear cylinders and put the brakes back on with the auto adjusters threaded all the way in then I would suspect that. Manually adjust them out first just so their is a real slight drag. Then the adjusters will take over from there.

GM

Reply to
GM

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