Considering buying a Chevy truck...need advice

Robert,

It would probably be best from a trade-in perspective to go with the newer body style. I also prefer the 5.7L or 5.3L engines from a power standpoint. If I remember correctly, 1999 was a split year where they made some models of the older body style and introduced the new body style as well. I've heard rumors you should stay away from the new body style 1999 version, but don't know particulars. I purchased a used 2000 1/2 ton Silverado Xcab, SWB and 5.3L engine in early 2001. It now has a little over 70K miles. I've not had any major engine / drive train problems. At around 50K miles I had an extremely hard time starting it and traced the problem to the vacuum controlled fuel regulator (very simple device but costs ~ $130). I also had to replace a fuel injector (~ $100). Other than that, it has run well. Things I don't like relate to engineering. To just change the automatic transmission filter and get the pan down you literally have to take most of the exhaust system down -- unbelievable! This is retrograde engineering from my 1993 pickup. It also takes 6 quarts of oil to do an oil change instead 5.5 with the previous 5.7L engine - a nit, but bugs me. And, the fuel economy is worse with the 5.3 vs. 5.7L engines. You can't now easily debug any engine problems without OBO II scan software and diagnostic equipment (after about model year 1996). This was much easier on my 1993 with OBO I. I'm an engineer and like to fix things myself. To fix my starting problem I purchased GM service manuals (~ $150 -- of very minimal use), a PDA and OBO II software. When it was all said and done, to fix my starting problem cost around $800. Though this could have probably been cheaper taking it to the dealer, I learned how to find and fix the problem myself and now have the equipment needed for the next problem on any of my vehicles. (I and my friends have been ripped off too many times at the dealer and are treated like idiots whenever we go there.) In addition, you should know about GM's knock problem with the newer Vortec engines (you can look up lawsuits related to GM). My 2000 pickup has none of these problems, but my wife's 2001 suburban (purchased new) w/ 5.3L Vortec knocks for around a minute when you start it cold. GM claims unless it knocks for more than 3 minutes, there's not a problem and claim it's due to a little too much tolerance with the aluminum pistons in the aluminum cylinder block when the engine is cold. My dealer wouldn't do anything for our suburban. I honestly don't know if this will turn out to be a problem or not later down the road (check back after we get ~ 200K miles on it). If you look a the newer body style pickups, just make sure you get a chance to start it first thing in the morning after it's set all night, since this is when they will knock the most.

-sorry for venting all my opinions, I've now owned at least 11 GM vehicles over the years and just believe they could be engineering things much better than they are currently doing...wish you well in your search...hope this helps you out a little...

-Jim

Robert Brown wrote:

I have a '99 Silverado(new style) extended cab/short bed, 5.3L. It has never had the piston slap problem. The only major problem I have had was a steering vibration problem at about 65-70 mph that was fixed under warranty by replacing the lower control arms and steering rack plus some other miscellaneous steering hardware. At the same time, the dealer replaced the rear springs, but I was never sure why. Since it was free, I didn't question it.

There are a host of technical service bulletins issued on these trucks. Many are for minor problems, but some could be expensive to repair out of warranty. You can see the TSB titles at

To access the full texts requiresa subscription to Alldata, which IMHO is well worth the nominal cost if youdo your own work. No doubt many of the problems described in the TSB's werefixed in later production trucks so a late 1999, 2000 or 2001 would likelybe less trouble prone. If I were buying a used truck, I would want to seethe service records to ascertain which TSB repairs had been made.Otherwise, I am happy with my truck and consider it to be a pretty goodvalue.

BTW to change the transmission filter, does not require taking down the exhaust system. I watched a trans shop tech do it and all he needed was a tall jack to make a little room for the pan to come out. I don't remember what he jacked up, but it was a minor interference and he said he had done it many times.

Randy

In addition to the piston slap problem on some trucks, there has been failures of the ABS system pump, causing it to run all the time. The dealer fix is around $900. Check when starting the truck that the ABS warning light illuminates and then goes off after a few seconds. If the light does not illuminate, the seller may have pulled the ABS fuse to shut off the ABS pump. You will still have normal non-ABS brakes, but I think the ABS is a good safety feature. If I recall correctly, this problem started showing up on 99 and later trucks. Of course, it may be only that the ABS warning light has burned out. Also, if the ABS warning light stays on, there is a problem with the ABS system. The light should come on and then go off after a few seconds. I do not think there has been a recall on this. SF

The ABS problem is caused by the failure of an electronic switch in the ABS control module. This website offers a repair service. I have not used them, but probably will if I need the repair in the future.

Randy

(click on the ABS icon)