Freeze Plug 350 Small Block

Are there some on the back of the engine? How can you tell if they are leaking? Would you have to remove the engine or transmission to get @ them to do the below?

If you have identified a leaky freeze plug, you can: (1) drain the system, (2) clean the depression in the freeze plug with Scotch-brite and a cleaner like Simple Green to remove both grease and water- soluble deposits, (3) after it dries, apply a liberal amount of putty type steel filled epoxy to the inside of the freeze plug. If you aren't familiar, they are shaped like shallow flat-bottomed cups with an inside diameter about the size of a quarter. What you want to do is to cover the hole with the epoxy from the bottom of the cup up all the sides to the rim, where there is no corrosion

Reply to
Steve
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There are two cooling system "freeze" plugs on the back of the block, one on each bank. You have to remove the transmissionn and then the flywheel to access them Pressure test the system, if you have water coming out of the bellhousing they are a leaking.

In the time it takes to do everything you listed, not to mention having to wait for the putty to cure, you could just replace all the "freeze" plugs, about a dozen times over. Not to mention its the correct way to fix the problem, one that works and lasts. "Freeze" plugs rust from the inside out.. Your method is like bondo over rust and isnt even fit to call a jury rig, or even a shade tree repair. And on early chrysler blocks the general recomendation is to replace with brass plugs, not steel. I tend to use brass for everything, they never rust out.

And I put "freeze" in quotation marks because all though we all call them "freeze" plugs or expansion plugs, the engineering term is sand cast plugs.

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

Also, be sure to do the test cold....so they leak liquid...not steam.

skimmer

Reply to
NewsSkimmer

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