front inner break pad issue?

1991 Chevy C1500 5.7L 350 185k mi

hi! I noticed in the last 3 days that sometimes when breaking the left front of the truck would 'rumble' and make a scratching noise (but not your typical high-pitched screeching noise that break pads make when its time for new ones). It's quite noticeable, and only happens sometimes, though it's occuring more often now.

So I pulled of the left front tire/wheel and inspected the break pads. It seems that the inner break pad's actual pad is compeletely gone while the outer still has plenty left on it. Here's a picture of it so you can get an idea of what it is im up against:

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image is about 104kbytes. So what do you think? Is the pad really gone on the inside, or is that how it's supposed to be? If the inner pad is totally gone, why isn't the outter pad? Is something wrong with the caliper? Any suggestions on how to keep this from happening after new pads are installed? Thanks so much for your help!

Reply to
smoothmilk
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Your caliper isn't sliding on the pins like it's supposed to. Could be that the pins weren't cleaned and lubed last time pads were hung, or could be damaged pins. In either case, clean them well, inspect them for wear, replace the bushings (possibly the pins), lube them well, have the rotor turned if possible, if not - replace it (and I recommend replacing both at the same time), put new pads on it and drive on.......

Jeremy

Reply to
Jeremy Chavers

What are these "pins" you're referring to? I'm thinking of just taking this somewhere and having the work done if it requires the rotor's to be replace or worked on.

Reply to
smoothmilk

Actually it's the other way around. If the caliper is not free to slide the outer pad will wear. If the piston is a bit seized the inner pad will wear. Either way, it's time for new pads and a caliper mount kit. The piston will probably be fine once it's operating further back into the cylinder. B

Reply to
Battleax

That makes sense. Thanks battleax. Changeing the caliper *shouldnt* be too difficult, I'll give it a go. But where can I find replacements? I dont trust Napa Auto anymore. Thanks for your help!

Reply to
smoothmilk

You don't likely need new calipers. Just the bushing kit, this is the metal tubes the mounting bolts/pins go through, and rubber O-rings that they mount in, and new pads. You could "gently" pull back the rubber boot from the piston and see if there's a lot of grime under the rubber boot, unlikely as the boots look in good shape. The piston will have to be pushed back all the way with a large C clamp. Clean the mounting bolt/pins completly and lightly grease the shafts. All will be obvious when you remove the bolts. B

Reply to
Battleax

Re: front inner break pad issue? Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Sat, Jan 17, 2004, 4:40pm (CST-2) From: snipped-for-privacy@no.one.no.where.au (smoothmilk) That makes sense. Thanks battleax. Changing the caliper *shouldn't* be too difficult, I'll give it a go. But where can I find replacements? I don't trust Napa Auto anymore. Thanks for your help! On Sat, 17 Jan 2004 19:29:23 -0500, Battleax wrote: Actually it's the other way around. If the caliper is not free to slide the outer pad will wear. If the piston is a bit seized the inner pad will wear. Either way, it's time for new pads and a caliper mount kit. The piston will probably be fine once it's operating further back into the cylinder. B

Also if you have a kinked or collapsing hose or line when putting on the brake sure the fluid will force out the piston, but will not move back fast but will slowly retract back which will cause the inner pad to wear prematurely...It is common for high pressurelines..Which are the rubber lines to with in time collapse or to get...What we call a internal flap which is when a piece of rubbler line splits away and fluid pressure will cause the piece to flap up or down and clog or restrict proper flow...Try pushing back the caliper if its hard to get back in unhook the line ..If it goes back in smooth its in your line somewhere if not its in your caliper...I wount rebuild the caliper if you need to replace it replace the whole thing .Also the mounting pinswhen you press on the brake the caliper pushes agiabst the rotor and forces the calper back which slids on the pins to let the outter pads make contact..As stated sticking slides usually cause outer pad wear but should be serviced(greased) everytime you pull the caliper off. Hope I was of some help.. Steve C

Reply to
Steve Cook

Yeah ive replaced the pads before on it. the front is MUCH easier than the rear drum brakes ;)

So im guessing Napa (sigh) will have the bushing kit, and ill pick up some new front pads.

By the way, the ruber hose for the fluid looks really good, we replaced the one on the passenger side because it was getting worn somehow, but the drivers said looks brand new with no wear at all. i dont think its getting kinked or whatever the other guy was talking about.

thanks for the responses

Reply to
smoothmilk

You may not see a problem with the hose, but the inside of it may be collapsing. Something to keep in mind...

Reply to
Mike Levy

When I was having some braking issues on my 91, I ended up replacing the calipers and lines from Autozone because they were CHEAP. New calipers were $13 and hoses were $19. Too cheap to not replace.

Reply to
Troy

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