Got in the Sonoma (95) this morning and stuck the wrong key in the ignition. Realized in about 2 seconds that it wasn't the right key and put the Sonoma key in.
Naturally, it would not work at all. Not unlock the steering column or anything. Worked fine day before yesterday when I drove the truck but not anymore.
Does the S10/Sonoma have a history of the ignition switch suddenly not liking the key? Didn't break the other key off, the ignition switch just acts like the wrong key is in there.
Soooo.... assuming I have to run down to the dealer and buy me a new switch, anybody got an idea of how big a bill I'm in for and how big of a pain in the butt is this going to be?
I had a similar problem with my 85' K5 Turned out I had the steering wheel locked at the extremes of it's turning radius, and I had to turn the wheel just that "bit more" to get the key to work.
Well, guess I'm even dumber than I look... sigh....
Went out the next day and the key worked first try.
Thought it might have been the pin too far thing..
So when I shut it off, naturally I took it back to lock.
So guess what, now I'm back at square one. Steering is again locked, and the handy dandy Chitlon's manual says to unlock the steering to ge t access. So in other words, you have to have the ignition switch working before you can fix it. Sigh.....
Spent the better part of an hour wiggling and jiggling and turning and twisting, all to no avail. Some how there has to be a way, short of replacing the entire steering column.
My 92 S-10 recently got jammed just as you describe. Key would not come out and the column was locked except mine was stuck RUNNING! I sweated with it for 20 mins. and then the wife says, "why don't you call the dealer?" So, I called the dealer. He said bring it right over and I did.
Parts - $40 - new ignition switch Labor - $45 - About 45 mins. Time - Less than an hour.
He pulled the steering wheel and replaced the switch no problem.It's been fine ever since. Mechanic says after 185,000 miles the switch was probably just worn out.
Hope that helps.
BTW, if your ECM controlled truck won't shut off pull the ECM fuse. Learned that from the mechanic too.
You are correct. I am a locksmith, and Have found that WD-40 works great for breaking free a key cylinder that is old/stuck/corroded. In a new, undamaged lock, it will collect dust and grime and eventually where the lock out or make it stick. Though if you just want to maintain the lock to keep it in good working condition, there is no *miracle* fluid. We have found a decent way though. Put a little antiseize on the key with a brush, spreading evenly. Place the key in the lock, and turn several times. Doing this every few months will keep the lock in perfect condition, And reduce the friction of your key in the cylinder, thus making you key(s) last much longer.
Actually, to elaborate on that point a bit more: The reason that you can do that, is because the springs and tumblers inside the cylinder have become wore-out. The spring is "sprung", and the tumblers are either worn down or stick in the cylinder. Some Older Vehicles like a ford Ranger use a Wafer type cylinder, and these are guaranteed to where out eventually. I have come across vehicles that were so bad you could use a flat-head screwdriver to start them...Easily.
I'm trying real hard not to laugh, not at you, but with you.. I have been there a few times myself.. Earley last week I had a no start 3/4 ton pickup diesel parked way out back of the shop in the weeds..Went out there to try and start it, Started first try, let it run for a few minutes..saying to myself, gee I wonder whats wrong with it... well, Instead of driving it out of the weeds and mud and into a dry shop, I shut it down and tried again... Damn starters junk...Spent 1/2 hour with a hammer trying to crawl under it and tap on it while I get a helper to try and crank it... no damn good... Helper wouldn't get under the truck, not to mention if he did, he would probably break something as he has no clue what a starter looks like(one of those kids laid off from jiffy), so I finally towed it in and changed out the starter.... all done, all fixed, just wasted almost an hour, got soaked, and used up some of my favorite words, just because I didn't pull the damn thing in....whatever you do, don't put the damn thing at the lock position again..... Bobo as far as changing it, do you have torx screwdrivers(25t) an inverted torx socket(t6 I think) and a pick, about 6 inches long, with a 90 degree bend and a 1/2 inch tip??? pull the bottom cover off by removing the screws, then there are either 1 or 2 bolts (inverted torx)going up holding the upper cover on... There is always one right near the igntion cylinder, but not always one on the other side..use a flashlight and look up... after that , either the cover comes off, or it is held in place by the ignititon cylinder itself... the cylinder comes out the same way no matter what, just the cover can be in the way sometimes... lift the cover up or look at the top where the lock clyinder goes into the housing..you should find a 1/8 inch hole... put the e-brake on and the shifter(If column) into low... make sure the engine wont crank.. turn the cylinder to crank and push the pick into the hole, you should feel a spring detent, pull the cylinder out, and exchange for the new one.... Bobo
"Alex" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...
I went into automotive locksmithing in 1976 and have been active in it ever since. My first week of work I ran into several GM, single sided ignition locks that would start but not turn all of the way to off, this was before the shift lock cable design and the solenoid. Briggs and Stratton made the locks for most American vehicles, later they changed their name to Stratech or some such.
In those years that I have been smithing, I have seen this very condition on thousands of GM locks, not only for the ignition but for the doors and trunk as well as they are of the same basic design. These early locks (1935 to 1994 (some exceptions like the passlock still use the single sided into the upper nineties) contain 6 tumblers, each tumbler has a spring keeping pressure on it and holding the spring in position is a retainer cap. The retainer cap is the problem, lubricating the lock will cause a problem if your cap is already coming loose, it will quicken its demise.
The retainer cap is supposed to be staked firmly in position but the equipment used for many, many years to stake the retainer cap is defective or poorly designed or both. Many billions of dollars have been spent by consumers not to forget the inconvenience caused, even presenting a deadly situation in some cases all because of a poor quality manufacturing process by Briggs.
A GM 6 cut ignition lock wholesales for under $10. and any good locksmith or mechanic worth their salt can replace one in under 10 minutes.
People are being charged for poor quality parts, parts that fail because of poor engineering and the consumer gets stuck with the bill and some even smile about it.
As for the 1995 and up GM ignition locks, they are poorly engineered crap, tumblers in the first 3 positions have a tendency to jam up. GM should have a service advisory on newly designed tumblers that help prevent the problem. If your ignition does not want to turn on and your key is not worn, clean the lock out with a good spray cleaner until the fluid comes out clean, use compressed air from a can to blow out the residue then lube, place your key in the lock, use a plastic mallet and tap the key while turning. I get a lot of calls for these vehicles for jammed ignitions, half of the time it's a worn key and sometimes the key doesn't really look worn but there are 9 tumblers in the lock and the tollerances are tight. The tollerances in the door on the other hand are very loose so if your key works in the door and not in the ignition it could still be the key or crud in the lock. Look in the ignition lock with a good light, the tumblers are on the bottom, make sure they are all the same height as they should be. If any of the first 3 are down lower than the rest, use a sharp but small tool to lift them back into position and clean that lock.
To remove the ignition for the CSS column used on pickups and a few vehicles, remove the compression ring from the rear of the lock face cap, use a light and look for an indention and use a curved awl to push it rearward, this will work on most models but some of the newer pickups do not have allowances for rearward motion, if yours does, slide the compression ring rearward then pop the cap off, use a tool with an L on the end and go above the ignition lock and find the poke hole... make certain that the vehicle will not start, I put the tranny in gear or if manual I do not depress the clutch... turn the lock to start... as far as it will go then push inward on the lock... then place your poke tool in the lock retainer hole and you will feel the top of the retainer, depress it and wiggle the lock straight out, it will come then it will slighty turn back a little and come out. Installation is the reverse... the face cap and compression ring pops on easily.
I think that many engineers took their degrees from the internet or they are in the family of the executives. We all know horror stories of poorly designed crap that should have been recalled but wasn't, instead new parts were sold to the unwary dupe willing to pay for someone elses error.
I'm not even going to re-read or edit this crap, no wonder Toyota pickups are so popular... oh yeah, I've noticed that vehicles that are being made in Mexico fall apart 20 times faster than those made in the usa or Canada. Want fries with that?
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