Re: R-134 pressure levels in 1998 c-1500

Greetings,

> > I have a 1998 C-1500 with a 350. It has about 50,000 miles on it, and > currently is driven about 4000 miles/year. I've been having problems with > the AC where sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't work. Even when it > doesn't work, the clutch on the compressor is kicked in (ie the compressor > is on). If I turn it off for a while (10 minutes), and turn it back on it > works again. > > I went out and bought a R-134 pressure gauge, and attached it to the low > side, and it was registering 37 PSI with the AC temp set to max, and the > fan on high. The outside temp was about 85 degrees. > > According to the instuctions with the gauge, the pressure is supposed to be > 45-55 psi at that temperature. Is this true for all R-134 systems, or does > this vary by vehicle? If it does vary, is there an outside temperature to > low side pressure table available anywhere that I could see?

you see, this is how it is:

the low side pressure is directly related to the evaporator temperature (don't know if your gauge has both pressure and temp scales on it)

the lower the pressure, the lower the temperature

below about 40 degrees in a 134a system, the temperatures are below 32 degrees

thus, the evaporator will freeze the moisture in the air passing over it, and ice up solid

in an R-12 system, the old 'rule of thumb' was a degree per psi..........keep presusre above 35 or so, and you were OK

R-134a takes a bit higher pressure to keep you out of the frost zone, tho

hope this helps

Reply to
Gary Glaenzer
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The pressure is not your problem if the clutch is kicked in when its not working. Does it blow air, just hot air when its not working? If it is blowing hot air that is very strange. Are you SURE the compressor is kicked in when it quits? If so it must be a hot/cold door problem. Let us know..........

Reply to
Scott M

I will have to triple check the compressor is on. One clue is that it is a bit loud with a bit of a clicking sound when it is kicked in. I'd like to catch it not working and get the pressure reading.

Should the pressure change if the engine is idling vs running at say 2000 rpm?

A neighbor suggested there may be some needle valves in the compressor that could be stuck, and the compressor would be running, basically not able to pump because the valves are misplaced. Is there any possibility of this?

Reply to
ScottH

compressor is worn out it wont cool very well while idling. But this doesnt sound like your problem? Yours is hot air even while traveling down the road at times, correct? That clicking sound while running is not a good sign, but I've seen noisey compressors last a long time. Double check if it is really kicked in when it goes hot........

Reply to
Scott M

OK, do this. Rev the engine up to about 2000 RPM. Add freon slowly until it gets to about 35 on the low side. It probably wont take more than a half a can. This will insure that you have enough freon in it for it to work correctly. Let us know......

Reply to
Scott M

Well, it apparently was low freon, I added a 12 oz can of 134, and now it's back to freezing me out of the cab again, which is a good thing.

Are there any tricks to getting it to take the freon faster? It seemed to take about 20 minutes of fooling with it to get it to take the 134. A neighbor who knows what he's doing came over to help, and we had watered down the radiator, had the fan on high, revved the engine, and it didn't seem to take it well. One thing that didn't help was that it was in recirc vs fresh air.

Reply to
ScottH

You can turn the can upside down but thats about it. It was probably that ?cheap install kit you bought? that was slowing you down.

Reply to
Scott M

yes,, turn the can upside down, let that compressor try to swallow a slug of liquid R-134a

yessirree...............

Reply to
Gary Glaenzer

hose....Give me a break.

Reply to
Scott M

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