rear end interchange info

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Just about all the S Series from 94 on. They all are the same width just match up the gearing. The earlier ones should fit as well, but they may have different mounts for the shocks.

Thanks for the response. Would that include the pick-up truck models and the 2WD versions? AB

How in the hell did you manage to sheer the pinion? Been playing Evil Kenievel?

I just bought the truck about a week ago. The previous owner said it just stopped moving one day. You could put into gear (2WD) and the engine would just rev but thr truck wouldn't move. It would drive OK in 4WD. This morning, I pulled the differential cover, it was just about dry and the pinion gear teeth are all worn down. I guess the previous owner didn't hear the howling and screeching the rear end must have been making the past few months.... or years.

and the 2WD versions?

Yes BUT you need to make sure the gear ratios match what you have. Don't be surprised if they are a little different though, most newer 4X4s have a slightly faster ratio in the front ( like 4.10 rear and 4.05 in the front.) to provide some pull from the front axle when in 4X4. There is also a BIG difference in ratios between the automatics and standards.

82 to 93 S-10 pick ups have the shocks mounted on the spring shakle plate.

ZR2 trucks use a different rear end. It's a 8&1/2 vs the standard

7&1/2-7&5/8th rear end. Charles

THis is a tuff one. THere are a few rear axles that might be the correct width but you would have to do a little adapting for brakes, shocks. spring pads and such. Sounds like you had big tires on it and toasted it. You might check the rear end out of a CJ or wrangler that has a Dana 44 in it as it might be the correct width and a D44 out of a grand cherokee too. A regular cherokee rear axle may work too. It would be a Chrysler 8.25 and would be stronger than the rear axle you have now.

"" wrote: > Steve W. wrote: > > . > > > > wrote in > > message news: snipped-for-privacy@news.dallas.sbcglobal.net... > > > >>The 1995 Blazer s10 I recently purchased (4.3 V6, 4WD, auto) > has a > > > > sheared pinion gear. > > > >>I'm guessing it would be cheaper for me to just swap out a > used rear > > > > end than have a > > > >>specialty shop set me up with a new gear and posi assembly. > What rear > > > > ends will > > > >>interchange with my '95? > >>Thanks in advance. > >>AB > >>

My earlier comments were for finding a stronger rear axle for a replacement, not another weak one.

S-10's all use GM Corporate 10 bolt style rear ends. The 8&1/2 rear end under the ZR2's is stronger then the old 7&1/2-7&5/8th style used from

82 UP.

The only thing stronger you will get in a complete rear end high dollar after market type (GM car 12 bolt, Dana 44, Dana 60 after market units, all after market ford 9 inch). If you want Stronger gears, Motive Gear or Richmond Gear. I know of a few Big Block Nova's & Chevelles running after market gear sets in old 10 bolts. One is running low 9 second E.T.'s in the 1/4 mile.

Charles

Thanks for the responses, but I just need to know what STOCK rear ends will bolt in easily. I just want to get this truck back on the road and am not interested in modifying it for performance. Thanks. AB

in modifying

I don't have my hollender book here at home. But any salvage yard should have one. They will need to know the gear ratio, disk or drum rear brakes, locking vs open diff, and the other vehical info you already mentioned. With that they can get you the correct rear end. Charles

"" wrote: > SnoMan wrote: > > "" wrote: > > > Steve W. wrote: > > > > . > > > > > > > > wrote in > > > > message news: snipped-for-privacy@news.dallas.sbcglobal.net... > > > > > > > >>The 1995 Blazer s10 I recently purchased (4.3 V6, 4WD, > auto) > > > has a > > > > > > > > sheared pinion gear. > > > > > > > >>I'm guessing it would be cheaper for me to just swap > out a > > > used rear > > > > > > > > end than have a > > > > > > > >>specialty shop set me up with a new gear and posi > assembly. > > > What rear > > > > > > > > ends will > > > > > > > >>interchange with my '95? > > > >>Thanks in advance. > > > >>AB > > > >>

The 12 bolt is not really any stronger than a modern 10 bolt (they increased the axle size on the 8.5 inch 10 bolt in 89) and neither one is nothing to brag about. We destroyed a 12 bolt in a 10 sec drag car about 3 times before we gave up and installed a narrowed D60. We got the axles to hold up with a swap to strange axles, even switched to a spool to replace the carrier and hi impact gears but the last time the ring gear broke and we were done with it. I do not consider a 12 bolt a strong rear axle for a truck with oversized tires and a locker. A

8.5 10 bolt in a S10 would be okay and better than the 7.5 but the 12 bolt would offer no real world big gain over the 8.5. If it is not even for your S10, it is time to look at other axles than a 12 bolt.

First off Only ZR2 S-Trucks have the 8&1/2. All other S-Trucks use the

7&1/2-7&5/8's style 10 bolts. The ZR2 8&1/2's are the same as the old Corperate 8&1/2's. These rear ends take more abuse then any stock passenger car rear end. More then a stock ford 9 inch will take. The only advatages a 9 inch has are Axle Retention & Pig removial. Even Jeep rear ends are known for axles snapping and 3 wheeled uncontrolled slides on highways.

If your seriously Drag Racing a car (enough to have a spool or mini-spool, which means it's a trailered ride), you not running stock gears, and stock axles in the rear end unless your a morron. If your breaking a ring gear in a 12 bolt in a 10 second car, you have issues. Issues of the morronic sort. Charles

issues.

The issue was the rear axle assembly was not and could not be made strong enough but you hint at something else. We wanted it to last for weight reasons but it could not hold up. When we went to a narrowed

60, the only problem we had was the axles twisting and we replaced them with strange axles too. THe axle were not breaking in the 60 but we had painted a line down them before we used them and they were twisted about 90 degrees after a few runs. The strange axles never showed any permanant twist.

If your getting that much driveline Shock at launch, and keep traction, something will give. Let me guess you have a 10 second car with

17x33x15's? (basically too much tire). Because that much shock should break free 10.50x28x15's. Actually if your twisting axles and crunching gears, you better upgrade your drive shaft and safety loops. Because it will become the next weakest link (been there, totalled a ride).

Really with that much shock it would be better to let the tires spin the first 15 to 20 feet off the line, would probably result in a lower E.T. since it will allow the engine not to bog and to spool up. Charles

lower

I forget the tire size as it has been many years and I do not do that anymore but it was a automatic with a 5500 RPM stall running a 400 SB with a 350 crank running about 7800 or so in the traps with 5.38 gears. Running alchol too and well over 700 hp. It would pull drivers side front wheel regulalry on launch and launched well. As a side note, never had any trouble with the modified THM400 we used (it had a manual shift valve body on it)