Rust, Rust and More Rust

I have an 89 Suburban with all the typical Rust Problems. I really like this truck. Its a conversion, although I am not sure of the company that did the work, I have seen one the same year by StarCraft that was similar, anyways.. I need to replace the upper rear wheel well arches, the front lower wheel well corners (down by the rocker in front of rear tires), front inner and outer fenders, full length rockers, and basically the rear deck area beneath the barn doors. (All work needs to be done both sides)

Questions are:

-Where can I get a all the rust repair pieces at a fair price?

-Anyone know of any helpfull chevy truck restoration links to reference?

-Any tips or suggestions for removing surface rust on undercarriage?

-I have a small gasless MIG, any tips for welding the sheet metal would also be appreciated. (I am new to welding so any tips or links to info would be great)

Some have asked why i would want to fix it, but they just dont understand, Besides its Paid for.

Thanks much tEkGuY

Reply to
tekguy4
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Reply to
Shades

I followed the link above and doubt that their stuff will help you.

I worked in body shops in the rust belt for years and have done the replacements you need. You can get most of he panels at a local shop that sells paint, bondo, etc. Buy it locally and you can see what your getting. You need a flange tool. You can get one from JC Whitney or local stores for a pretty good price. Instructions for installing the panels are a bit lengthy. You should talk to autobody pros in your area to get some insight as to the best place to cut your old panels out and put the new ones in so your body work is minimized.

Good Luck!

Reply to
Scott

Ditto, I have the same problems with my 91... You can get the front fender skirts from LMC or JC Whitney for $37 each side. That will take care of the whole wheel well. The rear wheel wells are going to have to be made by you. I haven't done the ones on my truck yet but most likely you can cut an inch or two gap where the current seams overlap and just spot weld the new piece in. The rear floor panels will also have to be made by you. You need to keep an eye on the under floor "dimples" where the rear seat mounts, mine have tons of surface rust. You can get the rear roll pan off line

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. The rear cross member rust terribly, lucky for you, you have the barn doors. I have the tail gate which bolts to the cross member so the tailgate actually is coming loose... The cross member is only available from GM and is a currently available item ($235). I think the rear floor pan parts (wheels back to door) are interchangeable from the blazer floor pans which are available from JC Whitney but I am not sure. This is all I know hopefully somebody else posts. I also need the same information. Just as a side note if you do pull the rear floor pans it would be a good time to replace the in-tank fuel pump. :-)

good luck, mark

Reply to
r_d

I know for a fact that the repair panels that LMC caries are extensive and quality! I know more than a few ppl that have used one or two repair panels from LMC all the way to full panels and other items. I personally have bought, used, and been very happy with what they sell!

If you have the money, there are a couple Businesses in Cedar Rapids, Iowa that sell rust free bodies and parts. I own 2 Suburbans('85 and '88), both are cancerous. I called to find out a price on a body...Firewall to rear, all doors, cargo doors or tailgate, glass, and interior( though not

100% complete) for $3000. RUST FREE!!!

Reply to
Shades

Click on your link and see where it takes you. It takes me to computer parts.

Reply to
Scott

:-) LMC truck -->

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Reply to
r_d

Sorry...I didn't type it right.

Reply to
Shades

As far as the MIG goes I would use .020 wire and give it hell. There is less of a chance of "blow thru" with that wire. LMC floor panels are shit in my book. I used them on my 87 K5 and it gave my front floorpans the soda can effect (popping). So I cut the one out and fabbed my own up. I dunno how the other floorpans are or body panels. Let us know how it goes. .

Reply to
Cheryl and Rob

he doesn't have gas to use .020... I think the smallest flux core you can get is 0.035 which is a bit heavy for body panels, esp if you're new to welding or have a cheap machine. I use Lincoln NR-211-MP flux core wire in my Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 (great little 115V wire fed welder). if I didn't use the wp-100 outside I'd most likely have the .020 wire in it w/ C25 gas as all I do with it is weld 16ga-10 ga stuff. anything heavier and I fire up my Miller Bobcat 225NT.

to the OP, if you do weld in the panels, just drill a 3/16 hole every

6" or so and spot weld the panels in.. a continuous bead isn't necessary and would just seriously warp the panels.

hth, Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

From experience...Oil Canning is caused by installation and isn't all that difficult to eliminate with a panel that isn't seen...ya just need a torch, a bucket of water, and a rag!

Reply to
Shades

Thanks for all the tips, I have an inexpensive Craftsman MIG that uses

0.035 wire, I will defintely get a flange and punch tool and spot weld the new panels in the visible areas, where welds are that wont be seen, should I just spot weld or should I spot weld and then lay say a 6" inch seam weld working the weld out in sections to avoid heat distortion as much as possible?

After I have the new panels on, anyone got any hints for rust proofing so I am not doing the same thing in 5 years? (It seems the chamber that is created by the rocker panels just begs for rust, someone suggested using a quality rust proofing primer in the chamber and then filling the void with an expanding water resistant latex foam to keep the water out, sound feasible to you guys?)

I assume sand blasting is the best way to remove the surface rust underneath? I have purchased a couple gallons of rust converting paint to coat the entire underside with, any other tips would help?

Reply to
tekguy4

Spot weld then use a HIGH QUALITY auto body sealant. As for the rust that's there...I have found a product called RustMort that is AMAZING! It converts rust into an etched primer if you will. As long as the loose and flaky rust is gone, use it to both stop the rust and to prime the rust for a rust preventative(a TRUE rubberized undercoating is best from my experience). Maybe a couple small drainage holes in just the right places before rustproofing and really getting in the tough spots when washing off salt and road grit will do wonders!

Reply to
Shades

spot welds are all you need... that's all that held your body together from the factory. to seem the seal, go to NAPA and get the 3M seam sealant or go to a dealer and buy the GM stuff.

sounds good.

sand blasting tends to work harden the metal, but it is quite effective. prime it then use rubberized undercoating.

hth Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

Just wanted to thank eveyone for there input, I will post some results in the next few months

Thanks again tEkGuY

Reply to
tekguy4

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