Rusted nuts and bolts connecting exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe

Ken Brown wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

CRC power lube is good..........

See if you can find some "Kroil" by Kano Laboratories. Bar NONE - it is the absolute best most incredible penetrant I have seen in my 44 years existence!

"Penetrates to 1 millionth inch spaces, dissolves rust, lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. Displaces moisture. The oil that creeps. " - per the web site

...as they offer Kroil plus Silicone "SiliKroil", I would assume Kroil contains no silicone additives.

Never used Kroil may give it a shot, but I've always found pb blaster to be good for those bolts on my truck, but to be honest after many heating/cooling cycles I usually end up having to cut/snap those anyway.

Panther1 wrote:

I was going to say that it's a lot easier to just turn them until they break and get new ones to put it back together.

Tony

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

Now, another question: what are the best points to jack up a 1997 Chevy Astro if you want to lift the whole front end or rear end at once? I have always jacked the front end up under that cross member(?) beneath the engine, but the van slipped off a new aluminum jack and fell. Also, I have always put the jack beneath the differential when raising the rear end but wondered if it would bend the cover or mess up the gasket. Lately I have used the same points that the stock scissors jack uses. Then I need to find a new place to put the jack stands. Anyone know the best places for jack stands?

As before, thanks in advance for any advice.

Thats the best way I ve found, nicking them first with an angle grinder helps the process along. KROIL is the best penetrating oil I have found.