Tail light fuse blowing in 1993 S-10

A few months ago, I replaced the heater core in my 1993 Chevy S-10. That night, I was on my way to class when the instrument light went out. I suspected the tail lights had gone as well, so I pulled over and sure enough, the tail lights where out. The headlights, brake lights, and turn signals worked fine, but no running lights or instrument lights. I checked the "Tail lights" fuse, and it was blown. My first thought was that I may have pinched a wire under my dash during the heater core replacement, so I checked all of the wires that were visible and found nothing abnormal. So I replaced the fuse and started the truck. I let it sit in the driveway for 20 minutes, no blown fuse. So I drove it around town for 10 minutes, no blown fuse. It occured to me that when the fuse blew the first time, I was on the interstate, so I headed onto the interstate. After reaching 70 mph, sure enough, the fuse blew, exactly as it had done the first time. I'm baffled. What difference would speed make? If I keep it around town, no problem....I take it to highway speeds and the fuse blows! Anyone have any idea what could cause this?? Thank you in advance for your help.

Morris

Reply to
Morris
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Maybe vibration, try driving around town in lower gears for the same amount of time it took to blow the fuse on the interstate. There may be a short that is affected by a vibration frequency while at highway speeds. Those are tough to find.

Good luck

Brian

problem....I

Reply to
NoSpam

Also:

If it's a cable drive speedometer, check for loose grounds at the heater case and dash. Also look for a bad ground under the rear of the truck where the eyelet comes out of the harness to the frame.

All those bulbe charged, then a groung letting loose equals about 50 amps. Sounds like a lot, but a surge like that can pop a 20 amp fuse in a heart beat. 12 volts at 10 amps in a spike is loke 36 amps, in a coil winding like an A/C clutch it's over 120 volts!

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

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