Ok, I hope my '93 Suburban works out well for me. I'm going to do a bit of work on the front end before I take it in to get it aligned. The steering seems to have a bit of play in it. Simple question, I hope, it's just something I've never addressed before.
I am assuming ball joints are worn... Upper? Lower? How do you recommend I check them, and is there something else I should be checking while I have the thing off the ground?
Much thanks
Yes, the tie rod ends, and steering knuckles. And while you've got it apart, do the bushings as well.
Forgot to add that the Pitman arm should be replaced as well if you've got it apart. It also generates a wander and play in the steering when worn. The upper ball joints basically last forever even if thev've had only sporadic lubing. The lowers take all the punishment, and even with religious greasing by 200,000kms they're ready for replacement even if they have some life in them. If the shocks are original, they should be replaced too, leaks or no leaks. When I sold my '94 the steering had some wander and play as well. I was going to do a complete front end rebuild if I'd kept it.
Not sure if anyone is still checking this thread...
While not assuming anything, with the truck on the ground and in the air, I pushed and pulled the tire. First top to bottom, no play. So, not the ball joints. Then front to back, a very little motion that went all the way back up to the steering wheel.
There was just a very little twist to the tie rods, would this cause a little wander around center? There doesn't seem to be much slop anywhere. It pulls a bit to the right, would a mis-alignment cause this problem?
Thx
QBS wrote:
"QBS" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@qbs-online.com...
You need a ball joint gauge to check upper ball joints, and the lower control arms have to be supported. In the drive way use jack stands as close to the ball joints as you can so there is no weight or stress against the lower ball joint. The lower ball joints have a wear indicator where the greese zerk threads in, if it is proturding the joint is bad. The upper ones place the ball joint gauge so it contacts the spindle where the joint connects, grab tire and try ti tip the top in and out, more than 0.125" of play means its bad. All tie rod ends have twist, its normal, you check them by squeezing the joint by hand, not with arc joint pliers. Should be little or no compression. With the vehicle supported on the control arms to unload the suspension, grab both front tires and alternatly push them apart and pull them together, watching the idler arm for excessive movement up and down.. GM allows a ton of movement in the idler arms, and it is the weak point in the system, anymore than 3/4 inch replace and use moog. The center link depends on design, some are nothing more than a bar with four holes, one for each inner tie rod end, one for the idler, one for the pitman arm, this style never goes bad unless you hit a stump and bend it. Some have ball and socket joints for the idler and pitman, which you check the same way you check a tie rod end. Moving up the system, there is plastic cover over the steering shaft at the gear box, it is held in place by an open "loop" that goes around one of the power steering hoses, move this back and inspect the "rag" joint in laymans terms, steering coupler in tech terms. Its called a rag joint because its made up of plyes of "rubber" and braided nylon cloth much like a bias ply tire, it allows for flex between the body and frame. Wheels on the ground have someone rock the steering wheel, wear will be obvious. Given age of vehicle and miles, rag joint and idler arm would be what I look hard at. Also the upper control arm bushings. Your looking for rubber peeling out of them. usuually you will get pull on take off and then opposite pull on braking when they go, let go far enough, banging noise.
Upper ball joints, lower ball joints if the vehicle has been poorly maintained are possibles. Keep in mind the vehicle is 13 years old, things do wear out. MOOG MOOG MOOG cant say that enough for replacement parts. TRW if you cant get them. Stay away from the junk autozone and the discounts sell. absolute last choice is McQuary-Norris. GM is great except for the idler arm, the design is flawed as far as movement is concerned, I've never seen one come apart, but they just have too much play.
Whiitelightning
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