WAS: 1967 Chevy C40 motor id by casting #?

Hello again, Sorry for the late post on the #'s. My satellite connection has been down. The # stamped on a machined spot next to the distributor (front) is: F0907UY The # cast into the block on the passengers side rear is: CON2 H246

Again, sorry for the delay in replying, and thanks for any help you may have.

Mark

Reply to
M&S
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Ok I am really confused now. Machined spot next to distributor(front) as in distrib is in front of engine? Here's a page that shows where the casting and engine numbers are on chevy engines

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another
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The casting numbers on a chevy engine are just numbers, no letters. The engine number that is stamped into a pad on the right front of the engine, in front of the cylinder head will have numbers and letters. All Chevy "V" engines had the distributor in the rear, and it goes through the intake manifold. The GMC V-6 truck engine the distributor was in the rear but did not go through the manifold.

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

The second link you posted speaks to the location above specifically under "L6" it says: "L6 ? The engine identification codes are located on a machined pad on the right (passenger) side of the block behind the distributor."

These are the specific numbers I posted.

Mark

Reply to
M&S

Ok, this is the first I've read that the engine was an L6, and not a V-6 or V-8. Its a 292 cid, 3.875 bore, 4.120 stroke, 155 hp, production ceased in 1990, engines from 1987 to end of production were manufactured in Mexico, and not desirable. In 1984 Chevy gave it a new exhaust manifold and honest dual exhaust. Clifford Performance, formerly Clifford Research offers a ton of stuff for this engine.. Production started in 1963, and the engine was only used in trucks. Drivability can be improved by converting ignition to HEI. This might be the time to think about moving to a V-8, unless your trying to restore.

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

Whitelightning wrote:

Whitelightning, Thanks for the info and sorry about the mix up on the V8/V6/L6 thing. I actually never stated the motor config. in my original post. With regards to the rebuild/etc.. The truck is of course a 67' and was given to me by a friend. Its in pretty decent shape, has a dump, 4spd, pretty straight forward. It runs really well but burns a bit of oil and smokes a lot when the motor is cold. It has basically just been a farm truck for several years and sat all year except for hay season when it was used to haul hay from the field to the barn. I figured the valve seals have dried out hence the smoking mostly when cold. This would of course be just a "funsy" project as I have no intention of a restoration so to speak but I wouldnt mind investing a bit in it to get it a bit more road worthy and keep it reliable. I just kind of like the "old truck" thing better than picking up a newer truck. That said, the truck has one major issue that is leaning it towards staying a farm truck. The truck currently has the old style death (split) rims, and tires that are fairly dryrotted. Thinking about picking up 6 new used rims (newer splits or non) and 6 new tires could easily cost 1500-2K. Unfortunately at that price I could pickup a whole truck for 4k or so an have PS, more reliability, and so on. The wheels and tires are proving to be the real deal breaker I guess. I can pick up a gasket kit for a couple hundred, have the head reworked for a buck and a half and the motor would be in better shape (its not awfull now other than for the smoke). Plenty of power, starts great, etc.. I guess I will have to think on it a bit more. Thanks again for the info. At least now I can more closely figure what I would have in the motor.

Mark

Reply to
M&S

"M&S" wrote in message news:GjJIg.14872$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...

Ok we know its an 8 lug wheel, what size studs things were pretty much "standard" when it came to 8 lug up until about 83. I used to sneak into the army can point(fancy term for a junk yard lol) and pull wheels off 1980-82 M880 trucks, (dodge 3/4 ton rated at 5/4 tons) and use them on my 76 Jeep J-20 when I mangled them playing off road.. All you have to do is go a couple years newer and your away from the split rims. And split rims get a bad rap. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a multi piece rim. The only time things go wrong is when an obviously bad component is used to reassemble one, or some one messes up and mixes a 16'' and 16.5" tires and rims up. If the lock ring looks like a cork-screw when it comes off, throw it away and get a new one. Clean the rim of rust, especially the groove the outer ring and lock ring set in. There are still millions of trucks rolling the roads with two and three piece rims, and all heavy equipment uses multi-piece rims. when dis-assembling them take small bites when prying the lock rings off, and you wont distort and cork screw them most of the time. On the 16 and 16.5 issue, watch it with one piece rims as well, they came both ways. They can both be "put" on the wrong rim, but when you go to inflate them things go wrong real fast. The 16.5 tire will blow of the rim explosively, the bead has a steep angle on it to begin with instead of a square design. The 16" can blow apart when inflated on a 16.5 rim, the tire bead busts trying to stretch over the bead seat. If this thing has 3/4 inch studs or 7/8 studs, you can go up to 8:00 or

10:00X18 or maybe even 9:00 or 10:00X20 depending on wheel clearance. Depending on what tranny the old girl has you get to have more fun. some of the c-40 series used a Brownie box, an auxiliary gear box between the tranny and the diff,. a jack shaft used between them and a shorter drive shaft. There were three popular ones, two of them were of the "deep" reduction kind, but one of them was an over drive unit, ie a reduction., a 1:1 and then a mild over drive, And it gives you a twin stick shift set up. yet another option is the c-40, 50, and 60's had optional two speed rear ends, mostly vacuum operated, but some were electric shift. Go ape, build yourself a 32 speed lol.

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

As I recall,the problem with split-rims is that these days a lot of shops won't/can't change a tire on one(at least around here in the big city). Plus I don't believe you can put a modern radial on there. I switched over to regular rims and radials on my '69 some years ago and have really enjoyed the improved ride and handling.-brian

Reply to
brianorion

Yeah, I dont think we are talking about the same animal here. This truck has 10 ply, 9.00-20 (20" rims), 10 lugs, on the rear. On the front it has 10 ply 7.50-20 (also 20" rims) though they are 5 lug. I have never measured the stud size.

Here are a couple links I found for similar, but a bit newer, trucks.

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No 16" wheels there :)

For the split rims, these are not "lock ring" splits i.e. the style with the outer ring on the bead. If they were, I wouldnt be concerned about them at all. Mounting those is not a concern for me or for any of the local mechanics around here because as you say, if you are carefull while assembling them they are perfectly safe. These rims are the style that came before that where the beads are one piece and there is a joining ring in the center of the rim in the well. Basically the rim spits in two in the well and there is no lock ring out at the bead. The point at which the two rims joins becomes rusty and there is no way to "know" for sure, even with good technique, if they will hold together.

Whats even a bit more spooky is that if that thin locking bead rusts enough it is said they can blow apart at any point. Some of the old timers swear that the rust can "jack" them apart and cause enough wear that under normal/heavy operation they can just up and let go. Very scary thinking that someone could get clipped off at the knees, or worse, as you are rolling down the road.

I am not sure I believe they can blow at any momemnt but I definately dont want to roll the dice breaking them down and reassembling. I also take great care when airing them up.

I have yet to even look into a set of replacement rims for the truck so for all I know they may be readily available at the junk yard but I cant imagine them costing the same, or less, than an average truck rim.

The truck currently is just a simple 4 spd, no jack shaft, no 2spd rear, nothing. I would be happy if I could just get a set of tires on it and either do a quicky rebuild on the motor or perhaps as you say up it to a V8. But then I would have to track down a tranny and all the other bits and pieces hehe.

I am torn between the nostalgia of the old truck and the fact that I can pick up a late model F700 cab and chasis which was a propane delivery truck, thus ran on propane (spotless engine) for 2500.00

Its one of those slippery slopes. Once I spend a nickel I will have to spend a dime, and then a dollar, if you know what I mean hehe.

Great info, and its greatly appreciated.

Mark

Reply to
M&S

try these folks

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Get newer than 72 and you get away from thatwheel design. at least they are "bud" rims and not "daytons". also I believe wheels from a deuce and a half will work on the rear, they were 10 lug 9:00 X 20. Any military bases near you? property disposal office and see what they have , you might get lucky and find tires and wheels ready to go, and the military is going to "super singles" (a big mistake in my opinion) a lot of times you can find the tires in almost new condition for $65 a piece. The M714 had a 5 lug, but I think it was only 18 inch, while the 5/4 ton M714 has been gone for awhile, its 3/4 ton trailer is still in inventory, which means surplus parts still available. for some reason I think the trailer had 20 inch wheels, 5 lug.

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

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