My 2004 Silverado Standard Cab Work Truck has the old-fashioned, crank-operated window regulators. In my previous trucks, I never had any problems with manually-operated windows. I conservatively estimate that I cranked open and closed the driver's window on my 14 year old 1990 Scottsdale at least 20,000 times, with no problems whatsoever. I probably cranked the driver's window on my 1978 Toyota truck an equal number of times in a shorter period of ownership, because it had no air conditioning.
On my 2004 Silverado, the driver's window seemed a little tight from day one. The window became tighter and tighter until I took the truck back to the dealer. The dealer's first attempt to remedy this situation involved spraying 3-M silicone around the window frame, and this actually did help some. I bought a can of 3-M silicone spray and continued this periodic maintenance of both windows.
A couple of weeks ago, on one of the coldest days of the year, I rolled down the driver's window at the toll booth of a bridge, paid the $3 and then found that the window would only go up about a quarter of the way before it jammed. I pulled off the road and tried to get the window to roll up all the way by grabbing the top of the glass and lifting it while simultaneously turning the crank. Finally, I was able to force the window all the way up. I continued to fiddle with the window and found that it would go down without a problem, but on the way back up, it would bind when the handle was in the
9 o'clock position, then in the 8 o'clock position, then in the 7 o'clock position and so on until the glass reached the top. On each turn of the crank, the window had to be forced past the binding point. After a couple of forced roll ups, the window quit binding and the mechanism just became noisy and harder to operate at the previous binding points.After tearing the door apart yesterday, the Chevrolet dealer decided that I had a defective window regulator and a new one was ordered and the repair will be made next week under warranty. The cheap, plastic window crank handle has become wobbly as a result of my having to apply excessive force to operate the window, so that will be replaced as well. But I'm not so sure that this will be the end of my problems with Chevrolet's newly-designed window regulators.
Yesterday, I went to a used car lot and sat in a 2000 Chevrolet work truck. Both window cranks were loose and wobbly, but the one on the driver's door was by far the worst. The window on the passenger side went up and down alright, but it had areas of tight operation and it made a variety of grinding and clunking noises. But the window regulator on the driver's side had areas where it was binding and it seemed about ready to disintegrate as it rattled, clunked, squeaked and groaned its way through its up and down operation. I believe that the 1999 Chevrolet model year introduced the window regulator that is in my 2004 Silverado, so this 2000 Truck was probably giving me a preview of what I can expect from my truck in a few years.
Since I went to the dealer early on with my problem window and then followed up right after the mechanism had developed irrefutable mechanical difficulties, there was no problem in getting the regulator replaced under warranty. However, I have been told by a couple of people that later on, Chevrolet will become less anxious to replace its defective window regulators and my problems might be classified as "normal wear and tear" and as such, not covered under warranty.
I don't think that Chevrolet's power windows are much better. When I was shopping for my 2004 Silverado, I tried the power windows in a couple of new trucks. My standard test was to "race" the windows by simultaneously pressing the up and down buttons of both the driver's window and the passenger window. Theoretically, both windows should complete their up and down cycles at the same time. But this was never the case with Chevrolet trucks, because there was always one window that lagged behind the other going down, and especially going up. The sticky window would always bind near the top and it was obvious that the motor was straining to force the window all the way closed. Some of the trucks windows worked moderately well, but one seemed that it would need to be repaired before it could be sold.
Fearing that power windows would be nothing but trouble, I went with the manual type. So far, the manual windows look like they will be nothing but trouble. Has anyone else had problems with Chevrolet's truck windows?