Check Engine light on again. At first I assumed it was P0441 again, but I checked and found it was P0700, which I understand is a somewhat general "Automatic Transmission Fault" message. Pulled the fuses for the computer and left them out for a while, and the vehicle ran for a couple of miles before the CEL came on again and the transmission shifted down. "Argh! Limp mode!" I thought, but I found that it *will* shift up from
2nd but only at a higher-than-normal speed.
The Climate Control display is blank. The fuses all seem to be OK. All the CC controls seem to work OK, but there is no display.
Is there any one fault that could account for *both* these problems?
The transmission problem seems most likely to be a sensor failure, from what I have read, but where do I look for the cause of the blank CC display?
The P0700 code indicates a problem with the trans. You will need a scan tool capable of communicating with the trans computer to determine what the exact trans failure code is. A common failure seems to be the input and/or output speed sensor failure. Don't just throw parts at it, have it scanned so you can find out exactly what the problem is.
I was thinking that low fluid level might cause give rise to a shift problem that might in turn generate the P0700 code. But the level is fine hot and with the engine running.
Further Googling suggested a faulty input sensor (in stock at all the local Advance Auto stores for $16.xx), but with car on ramps I can't reach the sensor anyway -- somewhat limited wrist mobility. On a hoist no problem, I'm sure.
I assume there's no reason to go to Chrysler dealer rather than to friendly neighborhood NAPA-affiliated repair guy? Or would only Chrysler dealer have the *right* scan tool?
Friendly neighborhood NAPA-affiliated repair guy recommended taking it to the Chrysler dealer or to a transmission specialist, so I took it to the dealer that's been servicing it for the last 4+ years. Took a while, but they eventually got additional codes (I didn't write them down) that corresponded to those in a TSB concerning some valve(s) or other. They have to order in parts (due tomorrow morning) and replace the valve body and other parts. The extended warranty (which I thought had expired already) will cover it for the standard $100 deductible vs. $600+ for parts and $200+ for labor.
I am even more glad today that it's being covered under the extended warranty, because now they have discovered that yet other parts need to be replaced -- something about contamination of some seals.
The ATC display intermittently going blank is a very common problem on the LH cars. I would think that woujld be covered under the extended warrranty too - hopefully it will decide to act up when they're looking at it - perhaps a gentle banging with the fist (on the ATC head unit) will cause it to act up. Or perhaps pushing on the display with your thumb will turn the problem on and off - often it will.
If you want to take care of it yourself: Solder cracks on surface mount parts on the p.c. board are the problem. Some (myself included) have been successful at resoldering the loose parts, but you can buy the entire ATC head unit all day long for under $50 including shipping from junk yards. Plus, if you don't have the tools or skills to do very delicate soldering, you'll ruin it anyway.
To find for under $50 including shipping, drill down at
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- narrow the geographical area as much or as little as you want.
Don't let the price on the first page scare you - they're listed in order of descending price. Go to the page with the asterisk by the page number at the bottom of the first page once you've done the drill down. That will take you to the dividing line between the lowest price and the "call for price" pages. Then work your way up the list for a low price. When you put the vehicle description in, any that come up (of other years and badging) will be interchangeable with yours - generally, the newer the better.
Then pick a salvage yard in your region and call the 800 number - they will ship to you for a nominal shipping fee.
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
You pull the woodgrained radio bezel rearward from the dash. Start out by removing the ashtray (press down on the tab inside the ashtray) and de-mating the cigarette lighter socket and traction control (if it has it) switch connectors. Then pull the bezel away from the dash at the bottom and work your way up to the top. The ATC control unit is attached to the bezel from the front (non-visible) side with screws. The connector has a tab on one side that you push in to release and de-mate the connector from the control unit. There are some screws to disassemble it - you will see a small fan built into the unit too.
I will warn you that the metal ends of the surface mount components, as well as the p.c. board traces they attach to are fragile - they don't stand up well to excess heat or mechanical stress.
On mine, the bad joints were on those blue resistors in this photo:
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Also - you may not even be able to see the cracks in the solder. The only way I knew where they were was connecting the p.c. board back up to the car out of the case and pressing different places until I found the place that I could press on to turn the problem (the display lighting) on and off.
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
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