1989 Le Barron AMP Guage goes past 18 check engine lite

I have a 1989 Chrysler Lebaron convertable with (a 2.5 LTR turbo, automatic trans). I just purchased this car and found all kinds of problems, but for the most part I have fixed them. The one problem I am having that I can not fix is the voltage regulator, I have been told it has a internal voltage regulator, I have been told it has an external voltage regulator, and I have been told the voltage is regulated from a (SMEC, single Module Engine Controller). Could you please shed some light on this, and let me know where the voltage regulator (in the alternator, external, SMEC) is located. Thank you SO much. Mark

Reply to
stover5
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Neither is correct.

Correct, the voltage regulator is built into the SMEC. This voltage regulation issue is the most common SMEC failure (which is not to say it's very common; Chrysler's modules tend to be pretty durable -- just that this particular failure is usually how they fail.) The official fix is to replace the SMEC.

Here is a much less costly fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine computer and without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator: NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount: NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount and convenient external voltage adjustment screw: NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw): Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw): NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128

Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one marked "IGN" and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld" terminal on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the original field wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to each other, small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals -- be careful not to break off the studs!).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and the "FLD" terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field terminal studs on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is plenty -- between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal, and mount the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this point, your charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully warmed up and idling, no lamps or other accessories on, and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two original field wires that you removed from the alternator, before securing these wires such that they can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.

DS

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

I feel so much better, I was thinking along these same lines (re-direct voltage regulation via a external regulator) but this is awsome with the part numbers... It sure beats $300.00 for the SMEC unit. And it sounds a little fun. Thank you so much. Mark

Reply to
stover5

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