1999 LHS timing belt question

I am preparing to change the timing belt, etc., on my 1999 Chrysler LHS, and would like to know if a puller is really necessary to remove the harmonic balancer. I do not have a puller of the type shown in the Haynes manual, and I would rather not buy one unless really necessary. Some other cars recommend a puller, but careful use of pry tools will work. Any info appreciated. Scotter

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You WILL NOT pry that pulley off, it will only come by using the correct intended, designed for THAT job puller. No $9.00 three jaw crap from Sears.

That said... If changing the timing belt, take all the covers off (there's a little one on the bottom), than pull a bit of belt forward thru between the spokes, then turn the crankshaft, the belt will walk around a bit and then be free (it's a rope trick thing) watch it carefully as it's happening so you'll know how to do it in reverse when installing the belt.

Yes, this really works, no, it doesn't damage the belt if done properly.

Here is the correct puller if you have to have it. http://www.cartools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product _Code=OTC6267&Category_Code=EG here's another version http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis49650.html

If you're doing the belt, you should replace the water pump, if you're replacing the water pump you need to remove the right side rear timing belt -rear- cover, there are O-rings between that cover and the block that shrivel up and leak, mimicking a leaking water pump, eventually corroding the aluminum cover to the point where it is junk. Removing the right rear timing belt cover requires removing the cam sprocket, you'll need the factory cam timing tool because the cam sprocket is not pinned to the camshaft and half-assing it will result in problems. The cam sprocket bolt is very very very tight -and- they used a lot of loc-tite, so tight it may stop you in your tracks.

Doing the whole job correctly -does- require some special tools and may not necessarily be a DIY job.

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aarcuda gave some excellent advice and agrees with my own experience replacing the timing belt on a 1996 3.5L Eagle Vision.

Bob

Excellent Advice removed

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Thanks to you and aarcuda. Appreciate the info. S

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I agree. I didn't pull the pulley off on mine either. No problem.

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you can index the cam shaft to the gear with the use of a sharp punch and gently making witness mark thru the pulley. u will see a small hole on the bac side i use to use paint but it came off to easy find a punch that fits the hole and it will be easy to recenter please note install the new beltcounterclockwise when u install it

aarcuda69062 wrote:

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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"> <html> you can index the cam shaft to the gear with the use of a sharp punch and gently <br>making witness mark thru the pulley. u will see a small hole on the bac side i&nbsp; use to use paint but it came off to easy find a punch that fits the hole and it will be easy to recenter <br>please note install the new beltcounterclockwise when u install it <p>aarcuda69062 wrote: <blockquote TYPE=CITE>In article &lt;TQ48f.2686$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com>,

<p>> I am preparing to change the timing belt, etc., on my 1999 Chrysler LHS, and <br>> would like to know if a puller is really necessary to remove the harmonic <br>> balancer. I do not have a puller of the type shown in the Haynes manual, and <br>> I would rather not buy one unless really necessary. Some other cars <br>> recommend a puller, but careful use of pry tools will work. Any info <br>> appreciated. <br>> Scotter <p>You WILL NOT pry that pulley off, it will only come by using the <br>correct intended, designed for THAT job puller.&nbsp; No $9.00 three <br>jaw crap from Sears. <p>That said...&nbsp; If changing the timing belt, take all the covers <br>off (there's a little one on the bottom), than pull a bit of belt <br>forward thru between the spokes, then turn the crankshaft, the <br>belt will walk around a bit and then be free (it's a rope trick <br>thing) watch it carefully as it's happening so you'll know how to <br>do it in reverse when installing the belt. <p>Yes, this really works, no, it doesn't damage the belt if done <br>properly. <p>Here is the correct puller if you have to have it. <br><a href="http://www.cartools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product ">http://www.cartools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp ;Product</a> <br>_Code=OTC6267&amp;Category_Code=EG <br>here's another version <br><a href="http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis49650.html ">http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis49650.html </a> <p>If you're doing the belt, you should replace the water pump, if <br>you're replacing the water pump you need to remove the right side <br>rear timing belt -rear- cover, there are O-rings between that <br>cover and the block that shrivel up and leak, mimicking a leaking <br>water pump, eventually corroding the aluminum cover to the point <br>where it is junk.&nbsp; Removing the right rear timing belt cover <br>requires removing the cam sprocket, you'll need the factory cam <br>timing tool because the cam sprocket is not pinned to the <br>camshaft and half-assing it will result in problems.&nbsp; The cam <br>sprocket bolt is very very very tight -and- they used a lot of <br>loc-tite, so tight it may stop you in your tracks. <p>Doing the whole job correctly -does- require some special tools <br>and may not necessarily be a DIY job.</blockquote> </html>

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Perhaps AutoZone will have the correct tool. Bob AZ

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i'm guessing that it is a 3.5 if it is. the new belt can be sneaked by the the lower pulley assembly without removing it the crank bolts are loctighted in place and have been known to break off in the crankshafts and that includes not using airtools to remove

Scotter wrote:

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