2,7 Engine

I always hear the bad things about the 2.7 and the sludge problem. (After I bought one).

Even read stories about those who changed the oil with synthetic every

3,000 miles and they still had a ruined engine anywhere from 50,000 to 65,000 miles.

Does anyone know of a 2.7 engine that lasted 100,000 + miles without it shucking out?

If so, what was their oil changing routine.

I have read that Chrysler corrected the sludge problem with the 2003 and newer engines. However, there are websites that say the problem still exists. Mine is a 2004.

I posted some concerns last summer on this website and thought I had a handle on it but after a trip to a mechanic last week I came home a little discouraged.

As stated above, I just want to know if anyone has had excellent luck with this engine.

Any info. would be appreciated.

Reply to
bernsax
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Those are the ones that dont maintain them and cry about them

So do the owners that dont maintain them

Thats my info Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech

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Reply to
maxpower

Mine's got 177k miles on it and running great on my 80 mile per day commute. I think it needs new exhaust valve seals, but other than that, doing fine.

Bought it with 58k miles on it - don't know the maintenance history prior to that. No synthetic. Castrol GTX every 3500 miles with filter (Purolator Pure One?) at each change. I keep 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase at all times initially as a corrective, now as a preventative, with a mix of 10W-30 and 20W-50 (2-to-3 in summer, 3-to-2 in winter).

Some (all?) corrective steps were taken before then - probably by 2001). As dumb as some of the things that the manufacturers do sometimes, I'd find it hard to believe that they made it their main engine in the new platforms if they had not fixed the problem.

I don't know what we told you then, but I doubt we'd have painted an overly rosey picture for you then in spite of my good experience.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

I have an early 2.7 (1999) in an Intrepid with 195,000 km (120,00 miles) on it with absolutely no problems at all. All I've done to the motor has been oil and filter changes every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) with the dealer's 5W30 dino oil and a Mopar filter.

Heck, I'm still on my first water pump! I've done exactly 4 things to the motor in 8 1/2 years: new EGR valve, replaced the PVC valve and hose (not with the revised part either - next time), new plugs and had the oil pressure sending unit repaired to fix the common venting problem. That's it.

Engine still idles smoothly and pulls as strongly as when new.

Reply to
Jeff Falkiner

Well, Jeff - you and I are proof that it doesn't necessarily require synthetic to get good service out of these engines.

Just curious - what has been your typical driving on that Intrepid. I attribute a good bit of my good experience with the 2.7L to my 80 mile mostly highway speed daily commute (and to good personal maintenance practices - and MMO hasn't hurt - helped? probably). You?

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

My 2.7L has been subjected to a major mix of driving. For the first 4 years, my commute to work was 6 minutes, now it's 25. The car has had its share of longer trips as well. It's a 2 hour drive to family. The car has also been to the east coast (from the frigid Midwest an hour from Detroit) and down to Florida.

I don't know if I've been good or lucky, but I am a firm believer in proper maintenance, including good PM. Now if I can figure out when to bite the bullet on that water pump....

Reply to
Jeff Falkiner

You and me both. I just bought parts to replace the leaking a.c evaporator - still have to install that (pull the dash, etc.). It will be a while after that that I will have the $$ or will power to tackle the timing chain and water pump. I'm willing to accept that it could go at any time. If I get to it before that happens, that would be a bonus.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

Bill Putney: You stated " I keep 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase at all times initially as a corrective, now as a preventative, with a mix of 10W-30 and 20W-50 (2-to-3 in summer, 3- to-2 in winter). " Was this MMO for sludge removal initially? Was there any evidence on oil drain &/or visual inspection inside the motor that it did remove some sludge? We have a 2.7 02 Sebring and while the little I can see inside the oil filler looks clean, I'm concerned about sludge - to the point where I'm doing my own oil/filter changes,(3k miles) as I can no longer trust the quickie places to put in quality oil (no matter what the decal on their bulk despensers says.) As for MMO, I've known race-car guys since the 60's who use it in crankcase &/or fuel; boat owners who swear by it for old marine 4 cycle motors, etc., but have never purchased it - maybe that logo looks too antiquated! TIA Bill.

Reply to
Bill

You're wise, I've always been suspicious of the bulk oil places like Mr Lube use. I now have my wife's Sebring done at Midas and they have to bring in the Castrol GTX oil in normal 1L containers for my change. We are on a 3 month change interval, regardless of the mileage, which is only about 2K miles.

I'd like to switch to synthetic and go back to a 6 month change interval. Does anyone have any comments on such a switch. There is only 30K miles on this 2001 2.7L Sebring.

Reply to
Some O

Yes - I assumed the worst since I did not know the exact history of the car (other than it had been a fleet vehicle - the oil pan drain hole threads had been stripped out - a comon occurence on aluminum pan cars maintained by idiots - and I assume was the motivation for it having been sold off, unless the fleet owner decided to dump it from fear of the rumors - true or not - of 2.7L failures that were occuring around the 60k to 80k mile range). Had no way of really knowing one way or the other what the internal sludge condition was, or at least, I decided not to do what it would take to find out and to, again, assume the worse and to take measures which would do no harm and likely undo any buildup in a controlled manner.

Did not look for it - just made the decision and went with it - didn't matter if it had it or not since I was fairly confident of the remedial measures I was taking - and regardless of what I saw coming out the drain hole, my remedy and preventative plan would remain the same. Did not know of the sludge rumors until after I had bought it.

Yes - there is a lot of evidence that those places (and even some dealers) will charge you for an oil and filter change without actually doing it if they think you are not paying attention (saw it first hand on two vehicles that I was involved with - one my elderly mother's brand new car at a dealer, the other on a used vehicle I bought with a Mopar filter with heavily rusted base that had been "religiously changed at a local Amerilube every 3000 miles since new"). Also there was an on-line exposé about a chain in LA caught on camera by a TV station.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

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