2001 Intrepid SE - Some Questions

Chain. Definitely. 3.2/3.5 have a belt with a 105K mile replacement interval. I've seen recommendations that 2.7Ls get their chains replaced at

75K, but it's probably overkill.

Interference. From what I understand, most chain-timed engines are, however.

Not sure, but I would be surprised if it didn't. It's probably the shortened version of the FL-1A /PH8A filter. Fram PH16 (can't remember the number of the Purolator I actually use.) If the mounting position is like that on the 3.2L, a full-length filter will fit, by the way.

Yes, it's in the tank. I'm not aware of a service interval, but there could be one.

Basically the same with improvements and different gearing. 42LE transmission.

Junk.

YMMV. My 1998's are occasionally noisy but otherwise okay.

I really would hold out for a 3.2L or 3.5L. Other than that, they're pretty solid.

--Geoff

It uses chains, and the chain tensioning system is apparently one of its weak spots.

Interference, which is why the chain tensioning system failures are so disastrous.

Basically the same, but its had hardware, software, or both improved almost every year its been in production. And my original '93 lasted

150,000 miles, so I really never have thought it was a particularly bad transmission. I think its reputation has suffered very badly from idiots putting fluids other than ATF+3 in it, or replacing it when the only thing broken was a sensor. Yes, it did have some POTENTIAL hardware problems that showed up from time-to-time (bump stop, broken snap-rings in early models) but nothing to deserve the reputation it got.

Hmmm - where'd you see the 75k mile chain replacement recommendation, Geoff? I've got 120k on mine now, and after mentioning that several times here and elsewhere, have not had any kind of replacement interval brought to my attention. The FSM doesn't show chain replacement in either the Sched. A or B.

Same filter for 2.7/3.2/3.5 - Pure One? is the PL14670. Regarding using the longer version (FL-1A/Pure One?), it is highly inadvisable to use that on the 2.7L engine. That is because, unlike with the 3.2 and 3.5, the filter on the 2.7 hangs straight down, is recessed and well protected by the frame and oil pan, and its end is about flush (slightly recessed) with the bottom of the oil pan and frame. The longer filter would extend quite a bit beyond the frame and bottom of the oil pan and be *very* vulnerable to puncture/damage by road debris, dips, etc.

There is no service interval. Short of an episode of really bad gas or trash, it is designed and intended to last the life of the car. From reading of the various LH car forums for a couple of years, it appears that reality agrees with that intent.

I will add that all of the things (controls, indicators, computers) that make it an AutoStick are external to the tranny - tranny itself is identical for A/S vs. non-A/S.

I will point out that the final drive gearing (chain and sprocket setup) that comes with the 2.7 is lower than what comes with the 3.2 and 3.5 - exceptions are the 300M Special (and I think Intrepid R/T) - which comes with the same gearing as the 2.7L. One of the first performance mods that non-Special 300M'ers often do is change the final drive sprockets to the 2.7L/Special set. (There are other even lower gearing sprockets available, namely Prowler sprockets and some aftermarket, but the

2.7/Special combination is the least expensive and is a noticeable enhancement).

I think by 2001 MY they all came from the factory with 16" or larger wheels and the larger rotors (Ø297mm vs. Ø282mm). If not (i.e., if it came with 15" wheels), you can upgrade to the larger rotors with a small investment of time and money (ask if interested, otherwise, I'll not bore you with the details - I did it on my Concorde that came from the factory with 15" steel wheels).

If yours does in fact have the 16" wheels, you can swap the rotors out for the PHP/PHG (300M PHP = Performance Handling Package = 300M PGP = Performance Group Package = R/T Intrepid) rotors - no mods at all needed

- just get the PHP rotors (NAPA P/N 86777 - go by the part number, not by NAPA's in-store application guide, which is incorrect) and put them on in place of the originals. PHP rotors are vented on the curbside, non-PHP are vented from the engine side - that's the only difference. The only situation where that might not be an advantage is if you have the factory steel wheels (relatively closed off) vs. alloys (much more open for good air flow with the outside venting). If you have steel wheels, and you want to do a little appearance and minor brake upgrade, get some alloys and then switch over to PHP rotors. (FYI: All previous comments about rotors apply to the fronts. All 2nd gen LH rear rotors are the *exact* same part - no variations/options on the rear brakes, other than maybe pad compound.)

I've never had any problems with my 99's solenoids either - not even noisy. But you do read of failures here and elsewhere.

Window lift motors were a problem, but I believe those were ironed out well before the 2001 MY.

Headlight faces get extremely scratchy and hazy, but that seems to be pretty common among many cars these days with the plastic lenses. Plan on replacing every 3 to 5 years.

Your 2.7 is probably OK (re: sludge) with the low mileage and maintenance care. What type of driving has it had? Mostly highway, or mostly stop & go/short trip?

In any case, as a possible corrective (in case some sludging has started) and future preemptive, I would definitely either use synthetic or put 1/4 qt. (8 oz.) of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase with each oil change. Whichever one you go with, replace the filter with *each* oil change, at least for the first 3 or 4 (maybe indefinitely - that's what I do).

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Oops - meant to provide the Pure One? number in the parentheses there for the longer filter (which, again, you should not use for the 2.7 for the reasons given in that post). It's PL30001.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Bill, Geoff, Steve,

Thanks for the input. I went ahead and made the purchase and spent today cleaning it up. I like that it does take the same oil filter. I too use the Pure One filters and have about a dozen on the shelf already PL14670. On the wheels, I have he 16" ones and they are the basic steel version. I'll probably just live with them unless the right deal comes along since they have fairly new tires. I'll probably need to do the brakes here shortly so will keep the higher performance rotors in mind. On the transmission, I've had good luck with the trans in the Vision but I've changed the fluid and filter every 30K miles. On the engine, I'll probably do a quick flush at the next change and I always change the filter and oil every 3K miles.

Bob

We will see how the engine and rest of the vehicle hold up for the next few years.

"

It was a recommendation by an independent shop's website, not an official recommendation. Which is why I think it's overkill.

Mine are just *starting* to cloud up slightly along the uppermost surface from the inside. I wonder if there's a way to slow this down or eliminate it?

--Geoff