:) Please help me! I just bought a 2001 Chrysler 300m and its overheating. So far, I only noticed that its happened when it?s a low speeds. The thing is that it goes from its average temperature position to the redline in about 15 seconds. Weird thing is when I re-start it and drive off, the temperature normalizes in about 10 seconds. I don?t understand what it could be. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! :)
With temperature gauge readings changing that quickly and repeatably on restarting the engine, it's more likely to be a gauge problem than an actual overheating problem.
What Daniel said notwithstanding, make sure the engine fans are working, and crack the air bleeder to see if you have any trapped air. Of course check coolant level in pressure bottle. Thermostat may be opening late (only after a heat soak which would explain the behavior you're seeing)
- not as easy to check - thermostat located underneath the driver's side near the front, and not easy to get to .
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')
If it is the 2.7 engine have the radiator inlet connector checked for a possible leak at the connector/bleeder screw.
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
You also should make sure the radiator doesen't have a bunch of leaves and dirt and crap that is blocking the airflow.
Ted
"" wrote: > Daniel J. Stern wrote: > > > On Tue, 26 Jul 2005, Ernie wrote: > > > > > >>:) Please help me! I just bought a 2001 Chrysler 300m and > its > >>overheating. So far, I only noticed that its happened when > it?s a low > >>speeds. The thing is that it goes from its average > temperature position > >>to the redline in about 15 seconds. Weird thing is when I > re-start it > >>and drive off, the temperature normalizes in about 10 > seconds. I don?t > >>understand what it could be. Any info would be greatly > appreciated. > > > > > > With temperature gauge readings changing that quickly and > repeatably on > > restarting the engine, it's more likely to be a gauge > problem than an > > actual overheating problem. > > What Daniel said notwithstanding, make sure the engine fans > are working, > and crack the air bleeder to see if you have any trapped air. > Of course > check coolant level in pressure bottle. Thermostat may be > opening late > (only after a heat soak which would explain the behavior > you're seeing) > - not as easy to check - thermostat located underneath the > driver's side > near the front, and not easy to get to . > > Bill Putney > (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet > in my > adddress with the letter 'x')
Thank you all for your help! My mechanic now says I need a new radiator, because he saw that the hoses near the :) radiator were about to bust. He says that?s because the radiator is clogged. I wonder if what Bill said could be true. I noticed that the car works fine when running at normal speeds. But after a normal drive, when I reach the parking lot, and sit there for a few minutes, the temparsture gauge will climb dramatically. Does that sound like air could be trapped? ANY info would be awesome. Thanks!!!
Ernie :)
Only thing I can add is that to conclude that the radiator is bad based on the hoses being "about to bust" is not good. If he's saying that
*after* ruling out several other possible causes of overheating, that's one thing (and maybe you left that out), but to see tight hoses and conclude that the radiator is bad on that alone is not a good diagnosis.Have you verified that the fans are coming on? Heating up when sitting still but not when moving points in that direction, but is not proof.
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')
Someone posted a while back a wierd overheating problem in the 300M that could be cured by back flushing the cooling system. According to the post, grit left over from production can sometimes work itself into holes thru which coolant was supposed to flow and backflushing would remove it. For what its worth.
Yes that is true, 2.7L Engine: Drain coolant. Remove thermostat housing and thermostat located on the lower left side of the block. It may be necessary to relocate the accessories on that side to gain access. Remove the black plastic water outlet on the top side of the engine. Many think this is the thermostat housing but it isn't these engines use a different theory for regulating the coolant into the engine as compared to a 2.0 or a 2.4. With the thermostat removed (lower left of engine) you will notice a round machined area and a small drilled hole about the diameter of a pencil in the cavity. Use shop air and blow air into this small hole, the air should exit at the top of the engine on the left cylinder head water outlet. Use shop rags to catch debris from re-entering the cooling system. You may need to reverse this procedure and apply air from the top to dislodge stubborn chips, mechanics wire will also help. . Due to the different design of the 3.5 versus the 2.7 it may be necessary to remove the lower intake and possibly the left cylinder head to remove the debris. There is a machined pocket in the cylinder head that can trap material easier than on a 2.7 engine.
Okay, the fans are coming on. But how do I crack the air bleeder? Where is it at? Thanks
Assuming you don't have the 2.7 (European M's), the bleeder is located on top front driver's side of engine - looks exactly like a brake bleeder.
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')
You said that "I replaced the radiator, x,x,x,x"
Are you saying that you personally did the work, or that you paid your mechanic to replace all those things.
If you personally replaced all that and, finally admitting defeat, took your car to your mechanic who wants to replace the head gaskets, then you are getting a good deal.
If your mechanic replaced all that and it didn't fix the problem then you need to stuff his $680 bill up his ass.
Ted
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.