5.2 V8 Oil filter question

well, for starters, EVERY SINGLE 225 I've ever had my hands on has come into my posession/under my care with a Fram filter on it. EVERY ONE would rattle and bang and keep the oil light on on startup for 5-7 seconds. EVERY ONE started up nice and quiet with the oil light blinking out almost immediately after an oil change with some Rotella

15W40 and a Wix 51515 filter. That's enough Fram for me. An upside down filter and a shitty, cheap anti-drainback valve don't really work well together. Of course if you have a right-side-up filter you may think it's no big deal, but hey, if the anti-drainback valve doesn't work, how do you know the rest of the filter is any good? Not to mention all the VW guys blowing off Frams on cold startup. (nothing says SUCK like a Corrado with no oil.)

Sure, it's anecdotal evidence... but in my mind it's fairly compelling, and the price difference is negligible enough that I stick with either Wix or Hastings depending on what's handy. (for VW I use Mann or Mahle) Since Wix uses a depth type element unlike pretty much everyone else, that's a big plus in my book too, esp. with old engines of unknown maintenance history/amount of sludge built up inside. Took off a NAPA Gold (relabeled Wix) from my '62 Stude (tons o' sludge) a while back, it weighed about twice as much as the new filter I put on but was apparently still flowing. Life good.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel
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OK, which brands? I use Mobil 1 and have never had any significant sludge accumulation, at least not in areas I can see (underside of valve covers and top of head).

Matt

Reply to
Matthew S. Whiting

I hear you. The '86 Subaru that I sold a couple of years ago would peg the 100 psi bourdon tube presure gage that I had on it when cold. Next time you're in the auto parts store, momentarilly sneak a Pure One? out of its box and poke it a little bit - I think you'll see what I mean. It's really bizarre.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Reply to
Bill Putney

Ahh ohh! Are we working up to one of those perenial "Pennsylvania parafin-based oils vs. all other oils" arguments? 8^)

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Reply to
Bill Putney

No need for that... I routinely *USE* Pure One filters on my other cars. I think I still have an un-installed new one on my parts shelf. Maybe its just the model filter you use? I only use the L-mumblemumble (whatever it is- I have some mental block against Purolator filter numbers! Can't remember 'em for anything even after using them for years) that cross-references to a Wix 1515 or AC PF-2.

Reply to
Steve

Cars with Daytime Running Lamps and Fram oil filters, and the owners who pour Pennzoil into them: Next Jerry Springer!

DS

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

And don't forget K&N air filters, and Amsoil...

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Reply to
Bill Putney

I wonder how your 225's would have responded with fresh oil and a fresh fram filter? Not that I'm doubting what you say. I've never had any problems with fram filters and I've used them for years(not exclusively mind you).

Reply to
Rick Blaine

Hmm funny thing is the Quaker State oil is always more expensive than the rest of the brands. (at least around here)

Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

...and their gay owners who want to get married...

DS

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

According to the bobistheoilguy website, one of those "pennsylvania based" companies actually has one of the best conventional oils on the market today.

The one that shocked me was when Exxon split their Superflo oil line into "Superflow Supreme" and "Superflo" a few years ago. I used to use Exxon oils all the time, never had a problem. I had switched to Mobil 1, but my Dad stuck with Exxon Supeflo and not " Superflo Supreme" when the split happened. And his 318 filled up with sludge at a mileage where mine (back on pre-split Superflo and Uniflo even before that) had remained perfectly clean.

I tend to stay away from all bargain-line oils because of that, but now that the "oilguy" website is available, its probably a better guide than price or market placement alone.

Reply to
Steve

For many years- Pennzoil and Quaker State, and cheap "store brand" stuff. More recently, Exxon Superflo (NOT Superflo Supreme). In my junkyard prowling, I find a high correlation of sludgy engines to layers of "Jiffy Lube" stickers remaining on the door jambs, also. FWIW.

I've never had sludge accumulation with older Exxon oils (Uniflo and Superflo prior to splitting into Superflow and Superflow Supreme lines), or with Valvoline or Mobil. Always heard wonderful things about Shell Rotella and Chevron oils too, but never used them.

Reply to
Steve

Which Pennsylvania Based companies would those be? Sun Oil?

Reply to
Greg

Where do such oils exist on the mass market?

Reply to
Greg

During my entire post-toddler life, I have heard this specifically about Quaker State and (be sure to sound your "Z" in) Pennzoil. Urban mtyh or fact-based? I don't know.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Reply to
Bill Putney

I've heard this also for years, but I believe it is urban legend. I can't believe that QS or Pennzoil would still be in business if this was true. They'd have been class actioned to death by now...

I think it was Quaker State that had a bad batch of oil get out many years ago (70s I think) and they ended up replacing a lot of engines. However, I believe this was due to a lapse in quality control, not a fundamental problem with the composition of the base stock.

I've used full synthetic oil since the late 70s so I haven't worried too much about this anyway. :-)

Matt

Reply to
Matthew S. Whiting

Kendall, Pennzoil, and Quaker State used to be three such oils, although I don't know if any still are.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

That's a good point, but my philosophy is "why risk it?"

Notice that I also specified Rotella oil... again, the only real cost difference is the time it takes to find it, but it gives me a little more peace of mind that I'm using the best stuff I know of in my car (short of a synthetic, which I do use in my newer cars - I figure the old ones aren't worth it since I have to change the oil so frequently anyway) and then if it *does* break down the road at least I won't be kicking myself about using inferior products due to cheapness or laziness.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

The last Quaker State refinery that I know of in Pennsylvania was in Rouseville and closed down about four years ago. Another company saved most of the jobs in the western Pa facility. by converting it to a wax making operation.

There is still some Penn Grade crude oil available, but the wax plant obtains its crude oil from Utah, because it contains more parafin. I think a small WV refinery still uses crude from Pennsylvania, but I don't know what that refinery produces.

In the meantime, Quaker State merged with part of the former Pennzoil. Royal Dutch Shell down owns the entire operation through a subsidiary.

The remaining refineries in Pennsylvania (i.e. Sun and whatever the Tosco refinery is now) are in/near Philadelphia and obtain their crude oil via tankers.

Quaker State had moved its headquarters from Oil City to Texas in 1995 and was aquired by Pennzoil in 1998.

By the way, that Rouseville Quaker State refinery, when it was in operation as a refinery, shipped its products other oil companies for packaging. Not sure if was used as motor oil though, there are tons of products that are derived from refined oil.

I wouldn't get too concerned about the trademark on the outside of the bottle, except for what additives are used. Then again, for synthetic oil, I only go with Mobil 1. Perhaps synthetic from other brands is just as good?

Reply to
Greg

Today, Pennzoil and Quaker State are little more than brand names of Royal Dutch/Shell Oil though.

Reply to
Greg

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