That's fairly low mileage.
Why? Did it need those things? Or were you just guessing, just shooting in the dark?
That may squeak you by the test, but, really, it's dumb to cheat on emission tests this way. Most anything that causes you to flunk the test also causes you to get lower gas mileage and worse performance. You're really better off finding and fixing the problem than horsing around trying to cheat past the test.
Yep: When it's in proper repair, it'll pass for sure.
So do the testers. Idle speed is checked; if it's too high the vehicle is flunked.
Why don't you start by seeing if any trouble codes have been stored?
To check the computer codes:
With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it "ON". Do not go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.
Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. For instance, if it flashes:
flash flash flash
flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash
flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash
Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes stored. Check the codes and report what you find.