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92 plymouth acclaim starts hard when cold

this is a 92 plymouth acclaim with a 2.5 4cyl the head gasket blew. i had the head milled 4 thousand to clean it up the machine shop said it was ok was not cracked (alum.head)put it back to gether. set the timing marks put the belt back on what a pain in the but that was car ran great now what it is doing when it is cold the thing starts hard it is fuel injected it acts like it is loaded up with fuel like there is a stuck choke but there is no choke on fuel inj cars. it acts like the old carborated cars when the choke would stick closed and would load up with fuel until you step down on it and clean it out when it is being started i hafto step down on the pedle or it wont start when it starts up it runs like crap for a minute then clears up then runs good when the car is up to temp it starts fine no problem i have checked my timing marks to be sure i didnt slip a tooth on the belt and checked my timing degree it is set at 12 degree it only acts up in the morning this is my wife car and she is scard to drive it she is afraid of getting stranded somewhere thanks i am lost on this one

Reply to
rick505
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Could be a faulty MAP sensor, cracked or blocked MAP sensor vacuum hose, water in MAP sensor hose, or other fault.

To check the computer codes:

With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it "ON". Do not go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.

Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. For instance, if it flashes:

flash flash flash

flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash

flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash

Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a

55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes stored. Check the codes and report what you find.

Are you using the correct procedure to check your ignition timing (disconnect coolant temperature sensor)?

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

Since you had the head milled, make sure they put the correct temperature sensor back in the head. If you got a wrong sensor it could cause just such a problem.

Reply to
David Dowell

It may be injected, but this can still be a problem. By that I mean that a LOT of injection systems make very carefull adjustment and metering of the FUEL, but do virtually nothing for the AIR!

I trust there is a "throttle body"???

I had a 3.0 V6, and there was a throttle body, and it is very easy to take off and inspect. KISS principle. Remove the throttle body and make sure that the main body, and all the ports and orofices (sp?) are clean and free of gunk and crap. A can of "throttle body" cleaner is cheap, and it is small work to clean this up and eliminate it as a source of problems. The throttle body on my 3.0 was totally clogged with thick goey black crud. I spent some time and took all the little bits off of it, and totally cleaned everything to a sparkling shine. Things sure worked a lot better after that. ;)

I would also check the O2 sensor. When the engine is cold the O2 sensor should not be operational. I believe a defective O2 sensor could throw off the mix even at cold temperatures if it was either grounding or shorting. Again, only takes a quick moment to check and eliminate this as a possible problem. Also realtively inexpensive and easy to swap out.

hth

Reply to
NewMan

False. All EFI systems available on the '92 Acclaim have full idle air control.

There is.

That happens on the 3.0, which has a "dry" throttle body upstream of the fuel injectors. The 2.2/2.5 nonturbo engine has a "wet" throttle body containing the one and only fuel injector. It does not get crudded up like the dry throttle bodies, for it has a constant spray of gasoline keeping the throttle plate, AIS passages and other orifices clean.

When the engine is cold the O2 sensor is never operational. That's how they work. But, it is good advice to check the O2S and also to check the miles since last replacement and the brand. If it is a Bosch and/or has not been changed in the last 50k miles, replacement is a wise idea even if it can be seen to work on a VOM or scan tool (they get lazy with age, and the failure that caused the head to need removal could very easily have contaminated the sensor).

Certainly possible, but not too likely.

The symptoms sound more like MAP-related problems.

DS

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

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