92 Voyager-Possible Wiring Problems-Need Help!

Really need some help, as I am stumped over these problems.

Acquired 92 Voyager AWD. I have no turn signals, tho the hazard lights do work. They use the same multi-function blinker switch.

I have no AC fan or heater blower motor. Fuses check out OK.

The good thing...it does run and drives out nicely.

Any and all help, suggestions sincerely appreciated. I'm stumped!!

P.S. There is juice at the bulkhead connector. So my deduction is: The problem is in the wiring harness from the bulkhead to the engine compartment wiring. Swapping out a wiring harness from a 93, same engine, tranny, etc.

If there's something I might be missing before tearing out the wiring, please let me know.

Many, Many Thanks!

Reply to
CaravanGuy
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Don't tear out the wiring!!

Did you test for power at the blower motor when the fan switch is turned on?

The turn signal switch is probably bad.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

Ted: No, didn't check at blower motor because of access. As stsated, there is juice at the firewall bulkhead, so I surmise there is an issue with turn signal wiring in the engine compartment wiring.

As you can understand, I don't want to keep playing 'poke and hope' with this vehicle forever. It's been nearly two months of trying just about everything under the sun. Have the Chrysler shop manual, which has been tremendous help. How can you be sure it's the turn signal switch? BTW, the wipers do work

Looking forward to your followup. Thank You for your time and help.

Reply to
CaravanGuy

Because a switch is a mechanical device and that's going to fail a lot faster than wires, that just sit there. Sure it's possible that the wires brushed up against an exhaust manifold or some such, but you can easily check for that.

Do yourself a favor and go to an electronics shop and get some real test probes. There's probes that have needles for the tip and a thing that captures the wire so it is easy to test for the presense of power without tearing apart everything. Remove the lower drivers dash and find the turn signal wires from the switch, actuate the turn signals and see if you see power coming from the switch, I will bet you won't.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

Ted: Going to pull a switch at my friendly bone yard this morning. It's possible the heater switch is bad, so I'll pull that. I should tell you there was a break in a fusible link, which I repaired. I had originally thought this was the problem, but have triple checked and there's juice running thru the new link.

I'll let U know what happens.

I hope this cures the problem (s). Thank You for your help.

Reply to
CaravanGuy

Ted: Installed another switch I got from our local boneyard, and nothing. No change. Didn't have time to get to Radio Shack for tester, as you described. I satill think the problem is not under the dash, but using a proper tester will tell all.

I got another heater/AC switch, but did not install it until the solve the turn signal situation. Any other suggestions appreciated.

Reply to
CaravanGuy

My 90 Acclaim lost it's turn signals a couple weeks ago. There was power to the fuse block but I couldn't get the lights to come on, even if I flipped the turn switch manually. Had the hardest time locating the relay but once I found it that was the problem. The relay had failed in the open position and wasn't letting any power through the circuit. The OP mentioned that his emergency flashers worked and might not realize that they are two different relays.

Mark R

Reply to
Mark R

Mark: I replaced the relay and the turn signals still would not work. I bought a couple of testers today and it's back to the drawing board. I have current at the fuse panel for the turn signals and hazards. I cannot seem to narrow it down. I'm trying now to see if the feed wire for the turn signals is the same as the AC and heater blower motor. That isn't working either. I have swapped out another entire AC/Heater switch. That didn't solve that problem. The rear defogger isn't working, either. That's probably going to be a pain in the butt.

Some folks on this forum have said it's possible each of these components failed and were never replaced. That's possible, but I think highly improbable.

This 92 AWD van has other issues as well. For whatever reason, both front doors were replaced with an 89 and 90 door. None of them is the same. Got a build sheet from my local dealer which says this thing came with power locks and power mirrors. The wires were cut in the harness between the door and the body and the doors replaced. WHY, I have no idea.

This is proving to be a nightmare, in terms of time and money spent to date. I paid $450 for the van. It was in some sort of accident because the passenger side fender is mangled up. Otherwise, the body is nice! Interior is dirty because of rug rats. The interior was full of candy wrappers and such when I got it! There is no body rust, as it came from Southern Idaho, where they don't use salt. Red in color. Know anyone who wants to buy a project vehicle. I'm losing interest. Engine and tranny are excellent, btw.

Reply to
CaravanGuy

Uh, oh. I wish you had mentioned that. Did they just cut them and leave the hacked off ends free to short against the body or did they do a nice job of tying them off so they woudn't get into trouble?

I don't know that you can get decent probes at Radio Shack. Here I can get them at Fry's Electronics, or a distributor in town who sells to electronic repair people. If your town isn't large you won't have that and will have to order the stuff online.

When you pulled the turn signal switch did you test the wires going to the switch for the presense of power? If there was no power to the switch then you will have to work backwards through the wiring harness. That is where the needle probes come in handy. Of course you can do the same thing with ordinary pins, but it's more tricky. And naturally that probably means the entire dash has to come out which if your 92 is anything like my

94 it is a lot of time and effort.

I just bought a project van myself a few months ago.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

They cut the wires, Ted, and left them in the rubber boot. The ends were not taped off at all. Something could have shorted out in the instrument panel, and yes, you are correct. it may entail tearing apart the entiredash to get to anything.

My town is only 20 thousand people, and unfortunately, we don't have every convenience big city folks have. We just got a Super WalMart opened last month. Radio Shack is a skeleton of what's in larger cities.

I think you understand the gravity of this situation. I'm thinking it's better to cut my losses and find another car and use this one for parts.

Reply to
CaravanGuy

Well sleep on it a few days before deciding anything you may change your mind. A lot of this depends on what you intended to get when you bought it.

If the goal was to buy a puzzle and put it together then you just need to take a breather for a week or so and come back at at again, you will learn and the sense of satisfaction when you find the problem will be worth it, trust me.

But if the goal was to get a great deal on some cheap wheels with a minimum of effort, then I can understand your wanting to cut your losses. If you think you can still sell it for the same $450 you paid for it then that might be the best way. Or you could just mount some cheap trailer lights on it and put a separate switch near the drivers position - there's no law that says that the turn signals have to be actuated from the stalk switch, after all. Who cares what it looks like it's a $450 vehicle, right? ;-) And after you get another 20K miles out of it and the transmission goes kaput, you can probably pull the engine and use it or sell it for what you paid for the entire van, and have the last laugh, right?

If you haven't seen this, here's my project minivan, this is my puzzle and so far it's been fun. I also have to tear the entire dash out in it but that is not because of wiring. It is because at some long past time in the van's history the airbags exploded and while they did replace the bag in the steering column, they did a total hack job on the passenger side, and the passenger dash is still torn up. I bought the dash pieces and air bag from a U pull it wrecking yard (correct color and everything) for about $30 and I have the factory manual and used that to pull the dash at the wrecker. Chrysler thoughtfully designed the dash so that everything overlaps everything else so you have to take ALL of it off to get at the screws you need to get at. But, when I get done with it, the inside will look the way it should:

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Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

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