93 Grand Caravan rear brake problem?

That's why I don't buy Chiltons books. But I don't know the answer. I either buy Factory Shop Manuals or get an on-line subscription to Alldata for all of my cars ($25 per year for first car, $15 for every car after the first one) - they have vehicle specific info. (procedures, pictures, schematics) right out of the FSMs.

I don't know your specific vehicle, but with most drum brakes, the rear shoe has a different material (and possibly even a different design) than the front one. This is because drum brakes work on a self energizing principle, and with the wheel cylinder at the top, the front shoe does 90% of the normal braking, and the rear shoe is only for the parking brake.

It's been a long time since I did a drum brake, but usually there is a piece of paper in the box with the shoes with some instructions pointing out how to identify the front from the rear. My guess is that it makes a difference which is the front and which is the rear shoe (problem caused by thickness, material, and/or shoe construction differences). You need to find out for sure which shoe goes where and start over. If problem still there, then tackle it, but you need to get that sorted out first. In lieu of any definitive info., I'd say the thicker shoe goes to the front.

Dumb question, but I have to ask: You did not mention the adjusters. You did back in your adjusters before installing the new shoes and drums, and then properly re-adjusted them out when done?

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Drum brakes have an adjuster. The adjuster is threaded and you can turn it to adjust it in or our as required so the shoes fit just right into the drums. Even Chilton's should illustrate this.

To adjust the emergency brake, you should be able to follow the emergency brake cables from the rear drums forward to the emergency brake pedal at the front of the van. As you do so, you'll see an adusting screw somewhere embedded in the cabling.

Did you retract the automatic adjusters?

Are the rear wheel cylinder (pistons) frozen? (I'd be surprised if they weren't)

If the return springs weren't overheated previously, they probably are now from driving with the brakes dragging as your post described, better replace them also.

The Park brake is self adjusting type on this 93. But it depends on correct adjustment and correct installation of the primary and secondary brake shoes on both sides. Obviously something is wrong with either your parts, your installation of them, or your adjustment of the installation. Also as mentioned, when doing brake shoes, it is always a good idea, and investment to spend the few extra dollars and get the shoe kit (new springs etc) and put them in at the same time. Also checking out the automatic adjusters is important, as they are often very dirty and stiff and often will not work at all if reinstalled in this condition. Very often if the star wheel teeth are in good condition, just a good clean and relubrication will fix them. It is also common on this vehicle, at this age for the adjuster star wheel teeth to be worn out and the adjuster lever unable to actually turn the wheel. I replaced mine both (on my 93 GC) at my last shoe job for this very reason.

I have been using and changing the Auto Zone liftime warranty front pads and rear shoes on our 93 Caravan for a long time. 160K. It has always been a very routin job. I have never noticed one shoe thicker than the other. It is possible but I just never noticed it. I did use the premium pads on the front and had to switch back to the cheaper shoes because the harder pads made the rotors warp. Switched back to the cheaper pads, 2 new rotors and all is well. Hope the info. helps.

Warren

Yes - I believe you are correct - good catch. Just reverse the words "front" and "rear" in my previous post. Thanks.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")